Processing a men's shirt collar: choosing a shape and preparing a pattern. Collar pattern with a cutting stand Men's shirt collar template

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In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling the collars, we need to have the base of the dress (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the (FAQ) Questions and Answers page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located both at the front and at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we put the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to translate shoulder dart on the back and chest on the shelf in the line of the armhole - this is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Place along the middle seam of the back highest value(5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern and draw out the collar. The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise appearance The entire product will be damaged.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in finished product, draw it on the right side on the shelf parts (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

Have a good mood and see you soon on the pages of our website!

Stand Collar Blouse: 59 Photos of the Best Cuts for Charming Style

The collar was originally invented to protect people from the cold. Today, the stand-up collar has lost its original use, and is now used for beauty, with which you can decorate any look.

By slightly changing the style or shape of the collar, the impression of the clothing on which it is used can change dramatically.

As for a blouse with a stand-up collar, this is a very laconic solution for a business look and more.

Stand collar cut

As for the stand-up collar, it is one of the easiest collars to cut. For a very long time, this type of collar cut was used exclusively in sportswear.

Later, this type of collar began to be used in business style. Fashion designers worked for a long time on how to use a stand-up collar, and now it is used even in evening dresses, which is very beautiful and can look.

Now there are many types of styles that use a stand-up collar, which have differences in height, width, etc.

Today, blouses with a stand-up collar, which have fabric of some contrasting color on the inside, look very stylish.

Who are stand collars ideal for?

Oddly enough, a stand-up collar is not suitable for all girls and women. Before wearing a product with a stand-up collar, you need to take a closer look at your own appearance.

If you have a “swan” neck, then you shouldn’t even doubt the choice of a collar stand; this model will suit you perfectly.

If your face is round or square, then it is not recommended to wear blouses that have a stand-up collar.

What can you wear with blouses that have stand-up collars?

If you wear a blouse white with a stand-up collar, this look is suitable for both the office and any kind of festive event. A blouse with a stand-up collar can be worn, firstly, with skirts, secondly, with trousers, and thirdly, with jeans.

On top of the blouse, you can wear, for example, a jacket or jacket. If you add a ruffle to the stand-up collar, then the look will be more feminine and also playful.

This type of blouse is usually worn for release, combined with a thin strap, which is better in a contrasting color.

If you prefer to tuck your blouses in, then you need to wear a wide belt. You can complement this look with a small handbag, beads, etc.

The stand-up collar on blouses made of silk looks very elegant. Since this type of fabric is not designed to hold its shape, it is best to make the blouse pattern not in parts, but in its entirety.

The stand-up collar will fit to your neck and gently and beautifully drape on it. If you wear a pencil skirt with such a blouse, it will be the perfect romantic look.

What kind of look can you create with a blouse that has a stand-up collar?

Blouses that have a stand-up collar can be combined into various styles, as these items are truly universal.

You can use blouses in the following looks:

business style;
casual look;
evening look.

As you can see, you can combine a blouse with a stand-up collar in various combinations and always look great.

Now, of course, there are many blouses of different cuts, but blouses with a stand-up collar are the most fashionable this season.

Almost all women are suitable for this type of blouse, so you can safely use them in your wardrobe. Therefore, follow fashion and always be beautiful and beautiful, dear ladies.

Sew from scratch!

Step by step instructions. From beginner to master.

How to make collar patterns?

When creating a model, one of the important components of it is the design of the neck. It may be without a collar, or it may have a collar. The appearance of any product largely depends on the successful choice of collar shape, its correct construction and processing.

For most collars, there are usually two main parts - a turn-down, or visible, and a so-called stand-up - invisible from the outside. By changing the shape of the visible part, as well as the size of the stand, fashion designers and designers create a wide variety of collar options. However, they can be roughly divided into three main groups.

Flat collars are distinguished by a small stand or do not have one at all. Such collars are most often found on women's and children's clothing and are made from finishing materials (lace, guipure, etc.).

Stand-up collars are the most common group. Collars of this type are widely used on both women's, children's, and men's clothing. This is our version of a shirt collar.

Stand-up collars that do not have a turn-down part and differ in the height of the stand, its shape, which determines the degree of fit of the collar to the neck, and the design of its ends (butt, bow, etc.). Currently, collars of this group are used in all types women's clothing. A butt or snap-on collar is widely used in youth, sports and occasionally in men's clothing, and of course, in women's.

The preparation and processing of the collar depends little on its design and shape and is performed approximately the same for all of the listed groups. The most complex technological operation is connecting the collar to the neck. The joining methods are very different and depend mainly on the shape of the neck, fastener, and also on the fabric from which the product is made. We have already considered one of the most common ways of connecting collars.

Today we will get acquainted with the principle of constructing collars, find out how to make collar patterns, what design features distinguish each group.

In our shirt we use a stand-up collar, using its example we will build a collar pattern.

How to make a collar on a shirt?

I'll tell you right away. that the method of constructing collars depends not so much on the assortment of clothes, but on the chosen style. In other words, it doesn't matter what you sew; a women's blouse or a men's shirt, a dress or a coat, it is important what you want to get: a tight-fitting collar or a loose collar, a turn-down or a stand-up collar. These are responses to queries like “constructing a collar pattern men's shirts» or "women's blouse collar".

To make a pattern drawing stand-up collar for products with a fastener to the top build a rectangle ABC 1 B, in which the base AB is equal to the length of the neckline, measured according to the drawings of the back and front of the bodice. If during fitting the neck dimensions were clarified and changed in comparison with the drawing, then measurements are made directly on the front and back parts of the product and in this case the size AB will be equal to half the total length of the neck without allowances for the fastener. When measuring, it is important to prevent stretching, since these areas, especially on the shelf, are cut along an oblique thread. That is why in individual tailoring all the details are not cut out at once, but only large ones, and only after fitting the trimming is cut out - collars, facings and other little things, which I wrote about in the article “How to cut fabric correctly?”

The height of the rectangle (AB) corresponds to the width of the collar, which is usually taken to be within 7-9 cm. (I take 9 cm.) Here you need to take into account that this width includes the visible part of the collar - the turn-down part. so is the invisible stand. For the ends of the collar (departure), this width may be sufficient, but for the back of the collar, nuances must be taken into account when constructing a drawing. If you want the collar to fit your neck more tightly, then this value will be final, but if you want the collar to gently bend around your neck, then you will need to add from 1.5 to 2.5 cm to this collar width to construct the pattern. (I take 2.5 cm.) Remember, the wider the collar at the back, the more it will restrict head movements.

In the constructed rectangle ABC 1 B, straight line AB represents the line of the middle of the collar (fabric fold).

To build a line for sewing the collar into the neckline, set aside 1.5 to 2.5 cm from point A upward, depending on the desired degree of fit of the collar. We put point A 1. We conditionally (approximately) divide the segment AB into three parts, put point A 2. From point B up along line BV 1, measure 1.0-1.5 cm (mine is 1.5 cm), place point B 1. First, you can connect these points A 1, A 2 and B 1 with a barely noticeable straight line. To the right along line A 1 A 2 from point A 1, lay down the length of the back sprout line, measured according to the drawing of the product from the middle of the back to the shoulder seam (point A 3).

Now you can draw a line for stitching the collar into the neckline by connecting points A 1 and A 3 with a smooth concave line, and then connecting A3, A2 and B 1 with a smooth convex curve, as shown in the pictures. We received a stitching line A 1 A 3 A 2 B 1, along which the finished collar will subsequently be connected to the main product. Point A 3 is marked on the pattern. This mark will be transferred to the fabric in the form of a serif.

Adjusting the width of the collar. If you cut up to 2.5 cm along the line of the stand, and set the width to 7 cm, then you need to take into account that in the invisible part of the collar (stand) there will be up to 3 cm left, then there will be practically nothing left on the visible turn-down part (7- 2.5 - 3.0 = 1.5). In our version, 3.5 cm remains. This is also not enough. Therefore, I raise the width of the collar at the back from point A 1 to 8 cm - point 8. This is the width of the finished collar of my shirt. I connect point 8 along the pattern with a smooth, beautiful line to B 1 and continue it ( departure collar) by 2.5-3.0 cm - point B 2. I connect B 2 with B 1 and design end collar

The collar drawing is ready!

How is a drawing different from a pattern? On the pattern, seam allowances, marks, and grain directions are added. Patterns are made for both the upper and lower collars, as they differ in width. This all matters for mass production. For individual tailoring, it is enough to just have a drawing. Seam allowances are given when cutting out. The lower collar is simply cut slightly narrower along the line of the stand by 0.2 - 0.5 cm, depending on the thickness of the fabric, so that when folded, the lower collar is not superfluous and does not spoil the appearance of the product. Marks, for example, for aligning the shoulder seam of a product and the direction of the grain thread can also be indicated in the drawing.

To answer the question “How to make collar patterns?”, I will give examples of constructing several more collars. I will show some in pictures so you can build collars if necessary.

Stand collar. Construction of a pattern.

Stand collars are one of the simplest collars.
However, despite their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 – cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article we will look at several designs of this type of collar related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.

In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.

The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.

We begin the construction by bringing the neckline into accordance with the chosen style. This means that after we have decided on the model of a dress, blouse, raincoat, etc., it is necessary to deepen, widen or change the shape of the neckline, if this is provided for by the style of the selected model.
We draw a new neckline and measure its length using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge.

The ideal option is when you specify the neck line during fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.

And let's start building the collar.

The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3–5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10–12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.

Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.

There are some nuances left.

If, according to the model, the ends of the stand are shaped at right angles, then the upper collar and collar can be cut out in one piece in the form of a single strip. In this case, the top edge of the post will have a fold rather than a seam.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A and A1 to the right we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A2 and A3 and connect them with straight lines. The final contour of the stand-up collar will be indicated by the letters O, A2, A3, O1.

When making patterns for the upper collar, do not forget to add 0.2-0.3 cm in the transverse seams and along the top seam to create a piping, but if the collar is one-piece with a collar - only in the transverse seams. See fig.

In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.

From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.

From point O to the right we set aside 1/3 of the distance OA and place point C.
From point A, draw a vertical line up and put 1.5-4 cm on it, put point A1.
The greater the distance AA1 (the greater the bend of the stand), the more the upper edge of the stand will be adjacent to the neck.
From point A1 up, set aside a distance equal to segment OO1 or another provided by your model, and place point A2.

We connect points C and A1 with a smooth curve. The final stitching line of the stand passes through points O, C, A1.
We shape the upper edge of the stand by connecting points O1 and A2 with a smooth curve parallel to the stitching line OCA1.

From point A1 at right angles to line CA1, draw a straight line until it intersects with line O1A2 and place point A3.
The ends (corners) of the stand are designed in accordance with the style of the product. In our example they are rounded.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.

I remind you. The upper collar pattern along the outer contour should be 1-3mm larger than the collar pattern. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that the stitching seam does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. to form a edging along the top and transverse seams of the rack.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar.

And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

The variety of collars of this type is achieved both due to the design and application various types finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.

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Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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Blouse collars: main types

A blouse of the simplest style instantly transforms and takes on a stylistic direction, you just need to add a certain collar to it.

There are a great many types of collars for women's blouses, but they can all be divided into three types: stand-up, turn-down and stand-up.

Thick and light blouses with a turn-down collar and stand-up collar

A stand-up collar is more common in products made of dense material, but a light blouse with a stand-up collar also has a right to exist. A stand is a part that is located vertically, that is, standing.

Usually this is the name for the entire collar, but in some types of combined collars the vertical part is called the stand-up collar. The stand is often decorated with cotton shirts, knitted blouses, leather and suede models. If the item is made of satin, silk or other soft fabric that does not stand on its own, the stand is reinforced with non-woven fabric.

A blouse with a turn-down collar does not have a stand, the part simply lies on the shoulders, back and chest - this type of collar is most typical for things made of light, thin fabrics.

The third type is a combined collar, which consists of a vertical part (stand) and a turn-down part. An example of such a style would be a classic shirt. But there are also originally designed necks that cannot be attributed to any of the varieties described above.

There are also types of blouse collars, based on the characteristics of the pattern and the method of connecting the part and the main product. The set-in collar is cut separately from the front and back and then sewn to the blouse. A piece that is cut as part of the front and/or back is called one-piece.

Manufacturers often opt for one-piece collars when it comes to difficult-to-process materials that fray or run in arrows. But no one is stopping you from using such a detail if you are sewing a blouse from a practical fabric that is easy to process.

Blouse styles with bows, round and English collars

Ascot.

This style has been in fashion for several seasons - a neat stand, the edges of which turn into long ribbons. Ribbons are tied with an original knot, a bow or a tie. A blouse with a bow collar looks romantic and stylish, suitable for creating feminine and flirty looks.

When wearing this model as part of a business style, tie the ribbons like a tie. Sometimes a blouse is sewn from soft fabric, and the collar no longer has a vertical part. This detail looks more like a scarf sewn to the neck.

Peter Pan.

This turn-down symmetrical collar with neat rounded edges is often used in school and classic blouses, as well as in retro-style items. Blouse with round collar goes well with pendants on chains or laces, with cameo brooches, and the turn-down piece itself is often decorated with beads, beads or small ruffles along the edge.

Sometimes blouses and tops with a round neck are complemented with a Peter Pan style patch collar, which allows you to add some flair to the item.

English collar.

This detail can be called a jacket-type collar - with lapels that form a triangular neckline. A blouse with an English collar slims the figure and is used in business and casual styles, and in oversized style and white color it looks flirty, but at the same time restrained.

This model can be combined with jackets and blazers, vests with a deep V-neck.

Blouses with high and shirt collars

Golf.

This is an integral part of turtlenecks, which are essentially knitted blouses. Blouse with high collar, which folds in half, is very practical - it will be perfect couple jumper, vest, blazer, leather jacket, bomber jacket.

You don’t need to wear a scarf or headscarf with such clothes, even in windy weather; pendants on long chains, beads and necklaces of any shape are perfect for them.

Shirt collar.

This style is appropriate in a business style; it is often used when sewing leather and eco-leather products. The detail looks formal and strict, and to add a touch of casual style to the look, you can use collar brooches in a bright and unusual design.

The shirt collar has many variations: the edges can be elongated or attached to the front of the shirt with snaps or buttons.

Blouses with swing collars and other options (with patterns)

Swing.

An original one-piece collar, which is perfect for products made from light fabrics such as satin, silk or viscose. A blouse with a “swing” collar looks gentle and feminine; when walking, the draperies smoothly sway from side to side - hence the name of the style.

The pattern of a blouse with a swing collar is simple to construct, but the effect is incredible - things of this style are sewn from both plain and printed materials.

Jack.

This detail is also called a sailor collar - at the back it is a rather large rectangle, and at the front the collar forms a triangular neckline and something like lapels. A blouse of this style is the ideal element of a nautical style look.

Most often, such a collar is sewn from the same fabric as the main product and decorated with contrasting edging.

Photos of knitted blouses show an imitation of guy-style collars, silk-screened or embroidered with sequins:

Clamp.

If you sew a collar from a lightweight fabric that drapes well, you can achieve the same effect as with a swing collar. The blouse will look elegant and delicate, and the flowing draperies will sway as you move.

But the main difference between a collar and a “swing” is that the collar is a stitched part, and the “swing” is part of the front of the blouse. The clamp on things made of dense materials will be voluminous - such models are poorly combined with outerwear adjacent cut.

Mandarin.

This stand-up collar most often complements Japanese-style blouses - at the front it is divided into two parts with rounded edges. This detail is complemented by an imitation of the smell, which is carried out using a contrasting narrow braid. The same braid decorates the upper edge of the tangerine stand.

Stewart.

This is a stand, the top edge of which is decorated with lace ruffles. Ruffles can be a contrasting shade or match the tone of the main color of the blouse. This style looks very elegant, yet strict, ideal for formal formal events, but can also be used in other styles.

Lace is always appropriate in romantic outfits; it’s easy to play with “Stuart” in a retro style, as well as in a business style.

Cadet.

This is a kind of stand-up collar, which is complemented by a zipper at the front. When unbuttoned, the detail turns into a turn-down collar with pointed edges. The cadet can be one-piece or stitched, and such a model can be worn in different options. These types of collars are suitable for knitted blouses, polyester models, as well as fleece and other soft materials.

Bertha.

Beautiful female name called a very wide turn-down collar that completely hides the shoulders, shoulder blades and chest. Most often, such a part is sewn from translucent lightweight material or lace, and sometimes it is made removable.

A blouse with such a collar is shown in the photo - a very delicate model that is suitable for a cafe, restaurant or romantic photo shoot:

Cape.

A hybrid of “Bertha” and “Peter Pan” is the cape - a type of wide turn-down collar with edges rounded at the front. Such details are popular in knitted blouse models, in products made from organza or chiffon.

You can see similar interesting collars on leather blouses - such things can be used to create bold looks in casual, rock and even grunge styles.

The collar is at the top, so it is this detail that is visible under any circumstances. When choosing a blouse, pay close attention to the design of the neckline so that the new item not only fits into your wardrobe, but also successfully complements your appearance.

Here you can see patterns of some blouse options, the descriptions of which are presented on this page:

Collar patterns

Stand-up collar with stitched stand

What interesting things do we have left from last season? There's a lot to note here, but let's start with the collars.

It is called differently - removable, overhead, detachable or separate, but the essence does not change from this - it is detachable collar. He is not new to our wardrobe; he was invented, so to speak, a long time ago. Who? I will not elaborate, since there are several versions on this matter, and therefore, each of us can carry out an excursion into history, if desired, on our own; now this is easy and simple to do.

A modern detachable collar is an independent accessory, especially for a woman’s suit.

Patterns for a stand-up collar with a one-piece stand-up

Six patterns of collars with a one-piece stand. These patterns can be used as standard patterns for collars when sewing blouses or dresses, and also, given modern tendencies, they can find slightly different uses. This, of course, will be a collar in any version, but...

Do you follow fashion? Then you understand that today you cannot do without a detachable collar.

Pattern of a flat collar - 3 models

How to transform a boring outfit? A collar will come to the rescue. Today we turn our attention to a lace collar, or a collar with embroidery, or just a collar made of fabric with a beautiful pattern, for example, with a floral pattern, etc.

We offer patterns for three models of collars, or rather, these are ready-made patterns in three designs.

This type of collar belongs to turn-down flat collars.

Before cutting the collar, specify the neck of the product, bring it in line with the collar pattern or, conversely, adjust the collar pattern in accordance with the neck of the product and only after that you can start cutting.

Collar patterns - patterns for four models

Collars - small and large, straight and curly, classic and fancy, modest and elegant. There are a lot of them, they are so different!

Very convenient to have on hand ready-made patterns for different types of collars.

After specifying the neck line of the product, we take a ready-made template for a collar of the desired style, check the stitching line for compliance, adjust it if necessary, and you can cut it. It's convenient, simple and fast.

Try it, I hope you like this approach.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 - cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article we will look at several designs of this type of collar related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.

In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.

The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.

The ideal option is when you specify the neck line during fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.

And let's start building the collar.

Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3 - 5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10 -12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.

Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.

There are some nuances left.

In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.

From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.

And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

The variety of collars of this type is achieved both through the design and through the use of various types of finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.

Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.

Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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DIY pattern - it's easy!

This is a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand. For men's shirts.

Why did I decide to talk specifically about the men's collar? Because if you are a beginner, you will understand the basic principle of constructing and processing shirt collars at a time. Another variation of such collars is a collar with a cutting stand. Today we will build a collar with a one-piece stand-up, but they are very similar. And they have the same processing. I think you can easily master both types by following my recommendations for creating a pattern. And in the near future we will start processing the collar and connecting it to the neck.

Construction scheme:

The basic drawing of the collar fits into a rectangle.

Important: in order to accurately match the seams of sewing the collar neck into the neck of the shirt, you should remove the length of the neck seam from the patterns of the front and back of the shirt. Taking into account the area of increase for the fastener. That is, from edge to edge of the shirt.

Subsequently, this value in my construction is designated by the letter N.

Draw a right angle, label the vertex with the letter A.

Collar length:

From point A to the right we put N cm

(the length of the front neck and back of the shirt according to the measurements of the pattern, taking into account the fastener) and put point B (Fig. 1):

All pictures are clickable

A B = removed from the pattern, in our example 20 cm.

From point B downwards we draw a straight line of arbitrary length.

Collar width

From point A downwards we set aside 9.5 cm and place point A 1.

From point A 1 to the right we draw a horizontal line and at the intersection with the vertical we place point B 1.

Collar sewing line

Line A 1 B 1:

From point B 1 to the left, set aside 1/4 of the length of line A 1 B 1. Place point C.

Then from point A 1 upward we set aside 0.7 cm and place point A 2.

From point B 1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm - point B 2.

The collar stitching line is drawn from point A 2 through point C to point B 2.

Comment: The distance between point B 2 and point B 1 regulates the degree of fit of the collar to the neck in the front area. And the smaller it is, the smaller the fit. The stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle (point A 2).

Collar departure line

From point A downwards we set aside 3 cm and place point A 3.

From point B to the left we set aside 1 cm and place point B 3. We connect point A 3 with a smooth concave pattern line to point B 3 so that a right angle is formed at point A 3.

Front collar A

From point B 2 we move the perpendicular upward by 2 cm, and place point C 1.

From point C 1 to the left at a right angle we also set aside 2 cm and immediately up from the resulting point also perpendicularly 0.7 cm. We place point C 2.

We connect points C 1 and C 2 with a straight line.

We also connect points C 2 and B 3 with a straight line.

IMPORTANT! The length of line A 2 B 2 must exactly correspond to the seam where the collar is sewn into the neck of the shirt. Now you can check everything again and adjust the length of the line, if necessary, in the center line of the collar. Simply move the center line of the collar to the left or right.

Line A 2 A 3 – collar fold – lobe line.

From point C 2 to the left (repeating the bends of the line of the neck of the collar), you should draw a line of inflection of the collar stand.

This line is needed to apply the factory, fast and accurate method of processing collars, which I propose to process the collars of men's shirts.

Loop position

On the shirt, measure the zipper allowance - usually this distance is 1.5-1.7 cm.

From point B2 to the left along the neck line, set aside the value of this allowance. Place the S point.

This point gives us a reference point for the position of the loop.

In stand-up collars of all types, the loop is always located perpendicular to the center line of the front. Point S – indicates the position of the center line of the shelf on the collar. From point S we draw a perpendicular upward to the inflection line of the collar stand.

Divide the resulting line in half and mark the position of the loop. In the drawing, the right end of the loop - the beginning of the loop - protrudes 2 mm beyond the center line of the shelf. The drawing is ready.

Special techniques in sewing products at the factory have always surprised me with their solutions in the processing of parts that are simple to the point of genius.

I learned one of these secrets a long time ago - when I was sewing men’s shirts in the workshop.

We had a norm of 25 units per shift. Of course, 25 fully tailored shirts! At the time, it seemed very unrealistic to me to sew 25 shirts.

But other masters taught me very quickly simple way high-speed processing of collars and cuffs of men's shirts.

And in the first week I finished 15 shirts per shift. Then everything was fine. A couple of months later I was safely fired.

The collar is the decoration of any outfit. Blouses, shirts and even jackets would have a completely different look if there were no collars. They can change proportions, elongate the neck line and even become an accent of a designer piece. Our today's lesson is dedicated to the stand-up collar. This is one of the most popular elements in men's fashion However, it is no less popular among women. We invite you to learn how to design various options for stand-up collars. It is very easy to create a pattern for any of these collars; you just need to take just one measurement.

The stand-up collar is widely used when sewing both men's and women's blouses and shirts. It is very comfortable to wear and gently fits the neck. We offer you two options - with a cut-off and a one-piece stand. We emphasize that the width of the stand and the configuration of the collar are determined by the model and the designer.

Option 1. Turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Rice. Shirt collar with cut-off stand

To design a collar, take the Neck Length (with placket) measurement. Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm) (Fig. 1). From point C, set aside 3 cm upward (the width of the stand as measured) and draw a horizontal line C1D1.

Divide the CD in half (division points are indicated by crosses). From point D, set aside 0.5 cm upwards and to the right. From point D2, set aside 0.5 cm upwards. Draw a stand-up collar with a rounded upper corner.

Departure collar

From point A, set down 5 cm (the width of the collar). From point D, set aside DD1=1/2 of the width of the plank. From point D1, draw an auxiliary line upward and construct a flight collar configuration.

IMPORTANT! The width and configuration of the departure collar depends on the model and design solution.

Rice. 1. Pattern shirt collar with cutting stand

Separately transfer the stand-up collar and the fly-away collar onto tracing paper and cut them out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 1a). The inner part of the stand and the outer part of the flight collar

Rice. 1a. Details of the cut of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

Option 2. Turn-down collar with a one-piece stand

Rice. Shirt collar with one-piece stand

Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm). From point C, set aside 2 cm, 3 cm (stand-up collar width), 4 cm (stand-up collar width) upward (Fig. 2).

Divide the CD in half and set aside 0.7 cm from the division point. Divide the right half of the collar in half. From point D, move 1 cm up and 0.5 cm to the right. Draw the bottom line of the collar as shown in Fig. 4.

From point 0.5, draw the short side of the stand-up collar, 2.4 cm long. Draw the top side of the stand-up collar parallel to the bottom side.

From point 0.5 (stand), set aside ½ of the width of the strip along the pattern to the left and draw an auxiliary line to side AB. From point B, move 1 cm to the left and draw the configuration of the take-off collar as shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a shirt collar with a one-piece stand

Transfer the collar onto tracing paper and cut it out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 2a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with thermal fabric.

Rice. 2a. Layout on the fabric of a collar with a one-piece stand

Mandarin collar pattern

A stand-up collar that fits tightly to the neck without the usual fastening at the front is called a mandarin collar. In some cases, the collar may have a clasp, which is usually a loop that goes over a button on the stem. The edges of the collar can be rounded or straight, depending on the model. The height of such a collar can be from 4 to 5 cm. The collar owes its name to the traditional Chinese costume from which it was “copied” and worn by officials of Imperial China - mandarins. Subsequently, this name was assigned to this form of collar.

Rice. Mandarin collar

To create a collar pattern, use the pattern of the front and back of the product. Take measurements of the length of the front neck and back from the product pattern (between the control points and the collar stitchings).

Construct a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neck according to the pattern and a height of 6.5 cm (Fig. 3). From point C, set aside 4 cm upward (collar width may vary depending on the model), in our case CC1 = 4 cm. From point D, set aside 3 cm upward. Draw a slightly curved line for sewing in the collar. At right angles, draw the short side of the collar (D1B1) to the segment AB and the upper side of the collar B1C1 along the pattern or by hand.

Rice. 3. Mandarin collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 3a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 3a. Layout of mandarin collar fabric

Tuxedo collar pattern

Another option for a stand-up collar for real ladies is the tuxedo collar. This collar is used to make blouses and shirts that are worn with a bow tie. Traditionally, the shirt is worn on formal occasions under a tuxedo, hence the name.

From the product pattern, take measurements of the length of the neck (with the strap). Draw a rectangle ABCD. AB = ½ length of the neck according to the pattern, AC = 7.5 cm. From point C, set aside the length of the back neck according to pattern CC2. From point C2, draw a short vertical auxiliary line upward. From point D, set DD1=1 cm up. Connect C2D1 as shown in Fig. 4.

Rice. Tuxedo Collar

Collar width CC1=3.5 cm. From point D, set aside 1.5 cm to the left (½ the width of the placket according to the pattern). BB1= 4.5 cm. Connect points 1.5 and 4.5. Place the segment DD1=2.5 cm at a right angle. Draw the outer edge of the collar according to the configuration in Fig. 4.

Rice. 4. Tuxedo collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 4a). Duplicate the inner part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 4a. Layout of tuxedo collar fabric

I continue the conversation on the topic of shirts. Let's create patterns for shirt-type turn-down collars. There are many such collars, but today we will look at some of them. Namely, collars with a cutting stand.

First option

Construction of a cut-off collar begins in the same way as construction of a collar, with a snug fit to the neck.

Draw a right angle with the vertex at point O. Up vertically we put a segment equal to the height of the stand and set point B. OB = 2.5 - 4 cm.

To the right, horizontally we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product. The length of the neck of the product is equal to the sum of the length of the front neck (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2). I show these segments with arrows in the figure ↓

Segment OO1 = OA / 3.

Then, from point O1, through point A1, we will draw an arc upward. On this arc we measure the segment A1A2 = OB – 1 cm. We connect points O1 and A2 with a straight line, on which we restore the perpendicular from point A2 upward. A2A3 = stand height = 3 – 4 cm.

Segment A2A4 = A1A. The perpendicular A4A5 is also equal to the height of the stand.

We divide the segment A2O1 in half, put point 1. From point 1 we lower a perpendicular equal to 0.5 - 1 cm and get point 2.

The line for stitching the stand into the neck passes through points O, O1, 2, A4, A2. The rounded edge of the post passes through points A2 and A5. The line connecting the stand with the collar passes through points B and A5 in a smooth line running parallel to the stitching line.

The stand is built, let's start building the collar flap.

To do this, draw a perpendicular from point A5 to the continuation of line OB and get point O2. From the resulting point upward, we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar, equal to 6 - 7 cm, and place point B1.

О2В1 = 6 – 7 cm.

Let's connect points B1 and A5 with a straight line. From the center of the resulting segment, we restore the perpendicular upwards 1 - 2 cm. Segment 3-4 = 1 - 2 cm. Let's draw a smooth line on the turn-down part of the collar through points B1, 4, A5.

To design the line of departure of the collar, we restore the perpendicular from point A5 to line A5B1. Segment A5A6 = B1B2 + 1.5 cm. Connect points B2 and A6 with a smooth curve, extending it from point A6 by 1.5 - 3.5 cm.

A6A7 = 1.5 – 3.5 cm (depending on the desired collar shape).

We connect point A7 to point A5, thus obtaining the line of the end of the collar. Corner A6, A7, A5 can be rounded if this is provided for by the style.

Second option

The difference between the second option is that the stand does not have a fastener with a button or button, and the ends of the stand either converge at one point, coinciding with the middle point of the side of the product, or are spaced apart by the width of the side or strip.

We begin constructing the collar pattern, as usual, by constructing a right angle at point O.

From point O upward we lay off a segment OB equal to the height of the stand (2 - 4 cm).

From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product minus 1 cm. That is, the sum of the length of the neck of the shelf (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2) minus 1 cm. And from point A up vertically we lay off the segment AA1 = OB + 1 cm.

Segment OO1 = OA / 3. Connect points O1 and A1 with a straight line. From the middle of the segment O1A1, point 1, lower the perpendicular = 1 cm down and place point 2.

We will form the line for stitching the stand into the neck with a smooth curve, connecting points O, O1, 2, A1.

We draw the line connecting the stand with the collar in a smooth curve through points B and A1, making a deflection in the middle of 0.3 cm. Segment 3-4 = 0.3 cm.

To construct the departure of the collar, connect point A1 with straight line OB at point O2 with a straight horizontal line.

From point O2 up vertically we plot the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. In this case, it is equal to 7 - 12 cm. O2B1 = 7 - 12 cm.

We connect Points B1 and A1 with a straight line. And we put 2 cm from point A1 onto this straight line, we get point A2.

From the middle of segment B1A2, point C, we restore the perpendicular upward. On this perpendicular we mark the segment CC1 = 2 cm, and the segment C1C2 = B1B2 + 1 cm.

We connect points B1, C1, A2 with a smooth curve, which is the connection line between the collar and the stand.

We also connect point B2 to point C2 with a smooth curve, continuing it to point A3. The location of point A3 is arbitrary, in accordance with the style of the collar.

Connect point A2 to point A3. Corner C2A3A2 can be rounded if this matches the style of your product.

I hope my instructions were clear, but if you still have questions, I will be happy to answer them! Write comments and share with like-minded crafters.