Collar modeling. One-piece high stand-up collar with bodice construction of a pattern Vest pattern with a one-piece collar

General description of the vest style, a set of patterns for it

Electronic pattern for a vest with a shawl collar 40-52

Sizes: 40-52

File format: PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

Price: $1.5 (payment in the currency of the buyer’s country)

Sewing difficulty level: professional - the pattern is not suitable for beginner couturiers, since sewing this vest will require outerwear sewing skills. In particular, you need to perform a WTO, glue the dubbing, process the shawl collar, pockets and connect the vest with the lining.

Sewing this vest will seem difficult for graduates of cutting and sewing courses, as well as for tailors of light dresses.

The set of patterns for a vest with a shawl collar imitating an English-type collar includes (Fig. 1):

1. Back patterns.
2. Shelves
3. Vest trim.

Patterns for armhole facings and lining are not included in the set of patterns, as they are cut according to the product or according to the same patterns for the back and front.

The chest gain (PG) is 12 cm - this is a large-volume vest (can be worn over a thick sweater or as a double-breasted one).

What fabric to make women's vests of this style from?

Thick ones will do wool fabrics, which are used for sewing coats: drape, cloth, boucle, ratin. As well as dense suiting fabrics such as lightweight drape or velor.

It is also possible to sew this vest model from velvet, jaccade and heavy silk suit fabrics, but in this case, you should choose the size so that the increase in the chest does not exceed 6 cm.

The consumption of “top” fabric for a vest is from 170 to 190 cm, depending on the size of the product.

The consumption of dublerin is from 110 to 180 cm - depending on the width of the dublerin and the size of the product.

The lining consumption is from 130 to 160 cm - depending on the size of the product.

To more accurately calculate the consumption, you should pre-lay out the patterns before purchasing the fabric.

In addition to fabric and butt, you will need a mannequin.

How to download and print patterns

How to cut a women's vest with a collar with your own hands

(detailed description of cutting at home)

Attention! Warning: all shawl collars are quite difficult to cut and sew, so this model is strongly not recommended for beginning home couturiers.

When cutting this vest, it is very important not only to follow the direction of the grain thread, but also to very accurately add seam allowances. This is especially true for the collar and sides - it is precisely the precise allowances that ensure the desired fit for the collar and will make its processing much easier.

Notches and construction lines when cutting a vest

An equally important point is the application of notches and design lines at the cutting stage. Notches are required at the waist and at the lowest point of the lapel bend. These notches are used as a guide when assembling the product.

An extremely important notch is made in the corner formed by the dart and the cut of the entrance to the pocket - without a clearly executed notch in this place, the assembly of the shelf is impossible. Notches in the corner simulating a lapel and others in the collar area are added during the processing process.

All professional tailors are well aware of the need to apply a lapel fold line with a slip stitch on both fronts and maintain the thread marking until the end of the product.

Pay attention to the length of the line indicating the bend of the lapel - you need to iron the lapel only at the bottom, at the beginning of the bend line, or not iron it at all. The second option, the so-called “swinging” lapel, is less preferable due to the small width of the lapel. At the same time, the ironing should fade smoothly at the top and its end should not be higher than the marked line.

To save fabric, the selection can be cut out with a dot (Fig. 2), that is, from 2 or more parts. There are also some nuances in this matter: the stitch seam should not be located above the beginning of the fold of the lapel, and in thick fabrics it is necessary to make stitches on the left and right hem in different places.

In addition, the dot stitch can be used to open facing stitches.

Seam allowances in a vest

Seam allowances are usual for a jacket and coat (Figures 2 and 3):

1. shoulder and side seams, middle seam, dart and pocket entrance, as well as seams of dots and armhole facings - 1 - 1.2 cm each;
2. at the bottom – 3.5 – 4 cm;
3. along the departure of the side and collar - 0.7 - 1 cm;
4. according to the departure of the hem – 1 – 1.2 cm.
5. Allowances for the sprout, armholes, collar stitching line, and inner edge of the hem are not added.

Please also pay attention to the difference in allowances for the flange and hem: it should be 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The thicker the fabric, the greater the difference in allowances. It is especially important to observe this difference in the collar area. The difference determines the size of the fit and the quality of the edging.

Separately, you should pay attention to the allowance along the middle back seam (Figure 2 and 3). If a classic slot is provided, then the allowance for it will be 5–6 cm.

Figure 2 shows the layout for small sizes, Figure 3 for medium sizes.

As for dubbing, it is performed in exactly the same way as when sewing a coat (Figures 2 and 3). That is, the back is duplicated below the level of the shoulder blades and the lower section is cut out with large teeth. The front, hem and facings are completely duplicated, of course, with the exception of seam allowances.

In addition, you should duplicate the bottom. Do not forget that the distance from the edge of the shelf dubbing should be 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

The trimming of the facings can be done both according to the product and according to the same patterns for the back and front (Figure 5).

Tailoring the product for individual tailoring is, of course, preferable, as it takes into account the likelihood of armhole correction.

The same can be said about cutting the lining - custom sewing professionals usually cut the lining according to the product after processing the sides.

For those who prefer to cut according to ready-made patterns, the lining is literally minus the facing and lining (Fig. 5). To save money and make cutting easier, it is advisable to perform the simplest modeling operation - closing the dart and the entrance to the pocket.

Seam allowances for the lining are as follows:(Figure 6):

1. shoulder and side – 1 – 1.2 cm each;
2. along the middle seam, an allowance for opening the slots should be taken into account - 5 - 6 cm, a “pocket” slot in the area of ​​the shoulder blades is desirable if the vest will be worn on thick clothes, but a couple of centimeters is enough for it;
3. we do not add allowances along the sprout,
4. Along the cuts, a double allowance is added to the armholes and to the hem - 2 - 2.5 cm.

The layout is jack, the fabric is folded along the width of the layout, that is, along the width of the shelf and back with allowances.

How to sew a vest step by step

1. Sewing a vest with a shawl collar is no different from sewing a similar vest or coat.
2. The darts on the front are processed with a strip of top fabric. See how to process darts in outerwear
3. The pocket can be worked into the seam by adding a leaf.
4. The WTO of a vest is performed in the same way as the WTO of a coat.
5. Fitting - taking into account the height of the shoulder pads on the product that you will wear under the vest.
6. Further, there are also no differences from sewing a coat.

In a previous article, I showed how to model a base pattern to create a classic women's V-neck vest pattern.

This article is about constructing patterns for vests with an English collar and a stand-up collar. And also - methods for transferring a chest dart, which will allow you to sew a vest of any model.

How to make a vest pattern with an English collar and cut-off side parts.

In the article about creating a pattern for an English collar, I already advised beginning craftswomen to make a pattern for the upper collar not with angular lines, but with semicircular ones - it is much easier to work with.

This process is described in detail in the recommended article, so now we will pay more attention to how to model the base pattern of a vest or jacket in order to sew a model with cut-off side parts - photo 12. You can read about changes in the front and back patterns, deepening the armholes in the first parts of the master class.

The only difference is the changes in the cut line. After you have drawn a line for the edge of the side at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front, draw the shape of the English collar and make a pattern for the top collar.

Draw the lines for the bottom of the vest and pocket. As a rule, the pocket line begins at the waist line and intersects the lines of the central dart at a slight angle.

We make a pattern for the side parts of the vest.

The width of the finished side part must be at least 10 cm in order to obtain a beautiful fit in the waist area. finished product. The optimal width is 11 – 15 cm depending on your size.

For example, for sizes 46 - 48, you chose the width of the side part 11 cm. It is better to distribute this distance between the patterns of the shelf and the back unevenly - the width of the part on the shelf is 5 cm, on the back - 6 cm - photo 13.

After you have determined the width, draw lines for the side reliefs on the shelf and back. The width of the side darts is 1 -1.5 cm each. On the shelf, you calculate the width of the central dart by subtracting the width of the side dart. On average, depending on the OT measurement, this distance is 2 – 2.5 cm

On the back the calculation is similar. But it is better to make the width of the side dart no more than 1 cm, and the central one - no more than 1.5 - 2 cm - photo 13, red arrows.

Cut off the side parts of the front and back along the lines of the reliefs, cut out tracing paper or paper in the area of ​​the darts at the waist.

Modeling the pattern for the back of the vest.

Vest models with cut-off side parts do not require a shoulder dart on the back parts. Therefore it needs to be closed. The exception is a stooped figure. In this case, it is better to leave the dart.

How to do it.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 (photo 14) approximately in half, draw a horizontal line. Cut the back pattern along this line to the top of the shoulder dart - point 3. Bring the sides of the shoulder dart together.

To ensure that the length of the armhole does not change, distribute the solution of the small dart going to the armhole evenly.

First, from the line of the central back seam, from the bottom point of the neckline 4, measure 0.5 cm to the left and draw a smooth line at the top of the central seam.

Secondly, let's change the angle of the shoulder seam line, lowering it down by 0.2 - 0.3 mm - point 5.

When combining the sides of the shoulder dart, they may not match in length. Simply draw a new shoulder seam line, trimming off the excess.

Closing the chest dart.

In order to close the chest dart, cut the front part (without the side part) along the pocket line and connect the sides of the dart - photo 15. Lower the top of the dart 1 - 2 cm down - point 6.

Then bring the edges of the center dart together into flanges and join the pocket edges together. Due to the slope of the pocket line, as a rule, the upper part overlaps the lower part in the area of ​​​​the entrance to the pocket. Most often, this is obtained with an OG measurement of 88 – 90 cm.

To cut off excess without disturbing the pocket slope line, draw a line from the top of the bust dart to side seam– points 7 and 8 and cut the pattern along this line. At point 8, try to put one part on top of the other so as not to change the length of the dart, but to get rid of the extra 2 - 3 mm on the side line - photo 16.

Constructing a cutting side part pattern.

In order to connect the side parts of the shelf and the back into one piece, draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper - the dotted line in photo 17. And cut these parts along the waist line.

When combined, the upper and lower parts overlap. Compensate for the millimeters lost during application on the hemline - photo 17.

Completing the pattern.

Check all the lines of reliefs and darts - they must match in length. Double-check the smoothness of the hemline on the back pattern and the one-piece side piece of the vest.

And, most importantly, check the direction of the lobe thread on all the details of the pattern - all the lobe lines should be drawn perpendicular to the waist line - photo 18. Otherwise, the product will not turn out well - distortions or creases will appear.

We are creating a pattern for a vest with a stand-up collar.

We start by deepening the neck of the back by 0.5 cm - point 9. Then we widen the necks of the back and front by 1 cm - points 10 and 11. Along the line of the middle front, the neck deepens by 3 cm - point 12. Draw a line for the edge of the side on at a distance of 1.5 cm from the mid-front line and mark the location of the buttons - photo 19.

In order to draw a new armhole line, shorten the shoulder seam lines by 2.5 - 3 cm and deepen the armholes by 2 cm.

To build a bottom line, you need to draw a horizontal line on the back and shelf at a distance of 12 - 18 cm from the waist line. To build the lower corner of the shelf with a rounded edge, set 3 cm down on the middle line and draw an inclined line that ends in a smooth semicircle.

If desired, you can make a shaped V-neck at the back and remove the shoulder dart in the same way as shown in the previous model.

Draw pocket lines and shorten the chest dart at its top by 2 cm - point 13.

Cut the front pattern along the dart lines. Connect the edges of the chest dart - points 14 and 15. You will get the front detail shown in photo 20.

On the neck of the shelf, mark the ledge point - point 16. At this point the stand-up collar will begin and end. To ensure that the right and left halves of the collar do not overlap each other, it is better to place the ledge point at the intersection of the neck line and the line of the center of the front.

Constructing a stand-up collar pattern.

The collar pattern is based on the main horizontal line - photo 21.

Measure the length of the new neck line of the back and front from the ledge point 16. From the starting point 1, set the resulting value minus 0.5 cm to the left.

From the resulting point 2, draw upward a vertical line 3 cm long - point 3.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 in half - place point 4.

Then divide the same distance by 3 - place point 5. Connect points 5 and 3 with an auxiliary straight line. Connect points 3, 5 and 4 with a smooth line, as shown in photo 21. This is the line for sewing in the stand-up collar.

Set aside the height of the collar from points 1 and 3 upwards, for example, 2.5 cm. Draw the desired line for the inclination and rounding of the ends of the stand-up collar. Check the width of the stand along the entire length of the collar. Match the collar pattern with the necks of the back and front. If necessary, make the necessary adjustments.

Once again, align all the pattern details along the lines of darts, reliefs, and side seams. Check the direction of the grain thread. On the collar it runs clearly along the fold line.

Now you can create your own pattern for a vest of any model. Good luck!

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values ​​and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located either at the front or at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Place along the middle seam of the back highest value(5-6 cm), slightly less shoulder seam(4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing the standing turn-down collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values ​​may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s ​​offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise appearance The entire product will be damaged.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in the finished product, let’s draw it on the right side on the front detail (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

• Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
• Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at

This type of collar is most often used in outerwear. Therefore, a one-piece stand is built on the basic drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

The stand-up collar drawing is based on the widened neckline. How much to widen the neck is up to you, in accordance with the style you have chosen for sewing. This value varies within fairly significant limits, 0-5 cm or more. The higher the stand, the wider the neck should be. The height of the stand can also be different. If we talk about average values, then this is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back matters! The construction in these two options will not be significantly different, but will differ. Today we are making a pattern for a one-piece coat rack with a seam in the middle of the back.

And so, suppose that we need to build a one-piece stand-up collar for fashionable coat O-shaped silhouette with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to decide on the height of the stand and, accordingly, the width of the neck. Let's widen the neckline by 2.5 cm and take the height of the stand to be 8 cm, since the coat is quite voluminous, we will make the stand accordingly.

Copy the details onto separate sheets of paper coat basics: backs and shelves. If you take ready-made patterns for a specific coat model, then keep in mind that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. I will tell you what to do in this case later.

Now we focus our attention on the drawing of the back and begin constructing the stand.

Let's widen the neck of the back by 2.5 cm. To do this, from the top of the neck we set aside the required value along the shoulder section of the back and put point O. Draw a new line for the neck, connecting points A and O - we will need this line later to construct the dart.

Draw vertical lines from points A and O upward.

From point A up, we set aside the height of the stand and place point O1. In our example, the height of the stand will be 8 cm, and you set aside your value. Remember, the height of the stand may vary.

From point O up, set aside the height of the stand minus 0.5-1 cm and set point O2 (8-0.5 = 7.5 cm). Those. We slightly lower the height of the stand at the level of the shoulder section. This value is not constant, its average values ​​are in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do bevel along the center line of the postAO1. To do this, to the left of point O1 we set aside the value of the bevel. The size of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will focus on average values, for example, take 1 cm and move it from point O1 to the left and place point O3. Draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points A and O3.

Let's do bevel along the shoulder line OO2. Typically, the amount of this bevel can be equal to or less than the amount of the bevel along the center line. The size of the bevel depends on the style of the product, the degree of fit of the stand to the neck, etc. We will take the value of 0.7 cm and move it from point O2 to the left, and place point O4.

We formalize top cut line of the rack. The configuration of the top line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be designed as either a straight or smooth line. It is important that the upper contour approaches the center line of the rack at a right angle - this general rule constructing patterns for all collars.

We formalize shoulder line smooth curve as shown in Figure 4.

To ensure product fit along the back neckline Let's build a tuck.
The dart is located in the middle of the AO section.

Dart solution on the back is usually within 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Dart length equal to twice the height of the rack. In our case, this is 8x2=16 cm, while the top of the dart should not reach the top cut of the stand by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section we draw a line parallel to the line of the shoulder section of the stand.
On the neck line we distribute the tuck solution 1 cm on both sides of the center line of the dart - this is 0.5 cm.

We put 8 cm down from the neck line AO.

We lower the top of the dart 0.5 cm from the top line of the stand. And we design the dart as shown in Figure 5.

A one-piece backrest is built.

Now let's start building the stand on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener with loops and buttons, so in the middle of the front we give an allowance, stepping back from the center line of the front 3-4 cm, we draw a line for the edge of the side along the entire length of the front pattern.

The width of the border for a coat can be different; it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the width of the side is 3 cm.

Now let's build the stand.

Just like on the back, we will widen the neckline by 2.5 cm, and mark the expansion point with the letter C.

From point C up, we set aside the height of the stand minus 0.5 cm - just like on the back, we lower the shoulder section of the stand by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 = 7.5 cm) and set point C1.

Let's do bevel along the shoulder line CC1. To do this, set aside 2 cm to the right of point C1 and place point C2.

We formalize shoulder line smooth curve as shown in the figure.

From point B up, set the height of the stand 8 cm and place point B1. By the way, the height of the front stand may be different and may not depend on the height of the stand on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm or, conversely, have a much smaller value if the style of the product suggested this.

Bevel along the front line the rack can be 2-4 cm. Set aside the amount of the bevel to the right of point B1 and set point B2.

Let's draw the line of the upper cut of the rack with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. We draw the front cut of the rack with a straight line.

Construction of a dart on the shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, it is necessary to remove the resulting excess neck width into the dart.

The location of the dart on the shelf depends on the style, the characteristics of the figure, etc. We will build a standard version. The direction of the dart is perpendicular to the neck line.

Dart solution on the shelf it is usually within 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Dart length on the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the stand. In our case it is 16 cm (double the height of the stand).

The center of the dart is located on the neck line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the center line of the front. Simply put, we measure the length of the neckline from the center line of the front to the shoulder and divide by three. We set aside the result obtained from the center line of the shelf and build a dart. We distribute the tuck solution along the neck line 1.5 cm: 2 = 0.75 cm. We put 8 cm down from the neck line, and the top of the dart should not reach the top cut of the stand by 0.5 cm.

That's all! Work for 20 minutes.

And remember, there are no hard and fast rules! Only those who go beyond the standards can get unusual, i.e. extraordinary, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Good luck!