Various collar patterns. Master classes. Stand collar. Four options Pattern for a shirt collar with a cutting stand

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The collar is a piece of clothing that appeared back in the 13th century, but for a long time did not deserve due attention, performing an exclusively practical function - protecting the neck from the cold. Today, a stand-up collar is not only the most common clothing element, but also a stylish decor. Designers are happy to use it in their collections due to the harmonious combination of ease of construction and processing with versatility. Indeed, with the help of this small detail you can give things individuality, elegance and a special style. And the variety of styles opens up wide possibilities even for independent modeling.

A stand-up collar is a garment that frames the neckline. It can be one-piece or stitched. It differs from other types of collars in the simplicity of its modeling; even for a novice seamstress it will not be difficult to build, cut out and sew on the element. Despite the apparent simplicity, the design of collars has its own specific nuances, with styles differing in height and degree of fit to the neck.

The first mentions of this item of clothing appeared in the 13th century. Then she was credited with mystical properties. It was believed that collars could protect the owner from the negative influence of otherworldly forces. Initially, this part was a fairly narrow strip. Later the element expanded, gradually its design became similar to a modern stand. The functionality was to protect from the weather and demonstrate the social status of the owner. Gradually, the stand-up collar was finally transformed into a removable wardrobe item. In Russia it became known thanks to Peter I and at first was called the “English collar”.

Varieties

According to the type of construction, the element can be one-piece or cut-off, when the stand is sewn into the neck. This method is most often used for jackets and coats. One-piece styles differ in the type of design; their manufacture requires special wet processing collar using an iron.

According to the type of modeling, products are of two types:

standing collars - made vertically along the neck;
stand-up collars - made with a flap.

When designing men's, women's, and children's clothing, the second option is most often used.

The stand collar is offered in 10 main varieties:

Elizabethan is a round frame element that appeared in the second half of the 17th century. It can be flat or voluminous, fluffy, starchy. Nowadays such products are used on clothes for masquerades and children's parties.
Polo - turn-down collar on a stand with a placket and buttons. Usually made of soft knitted fabric.
Mandarin - used most often on a shirt or jacket. It does not have turn-down corners, the edges are rounded, and is completed with a single button closure.
Cadet - a typical collar for sports jackets or sweatshirts. Fastens with a zipper. Wear it straight or turned back.
Golf - soft, easy to drape and tuck. It fits tightly to the throat, completely covering it.
Ascot - used in women's wardrobe, this is a stand with ribbons that are tied in various ways and serve as a bright accent in the image.
A funnel is a fairly tall model that widens towards the face, found in men's and women's clothing.
Romanesque or pastoral - this type of collar with a detachable stand is worn by Protestant and Catholic priests. It is removable, has buttons or snaps, and is made of cotton or plastic.
With beveled ends - worn on special occasions under a tuxedo. This collar is starched to give it a shape that is similar to a butterfly, as the ends turn out slightly.
Shirt collar is used in classic women's blouses and men's shirts; it has a stand-up collar, which can be either one-piece or sewn on.

The collar of a shirt is multifunctional; it can serve as protection from bad weather, confirm status, and demonstrate a particular style.

Elizavetinsky

Polo

Mandarin

Cadet

Golf

Ascot

Funnel

Pastoral

With beveled ends

Shirt

What goes with it?

With a stand-up collar you can wear a wide variety of clothes. The main thing is to maintain harmony:

The perfect combination of a stand-up shirt collar with business style. This element looks natural with a variety of jackets, jackets, trousers or skirts.
IN casual look A top with a tangerine or golf collar would be appropriate. Successful companion items are jeans, trousers, straight or flared skirts.
For special occasions, a tuxedo with a beveled collar and a bow tie is perfect.
Outerwear with such an element will be relevant in the cold season, protecting the neck and décolleté from wind and frost. Accessories and shoes can be chosen in any style and style. The main thing is to combine them according to color scheme.

A stand-up collar on a wedding dress looks especially elegant.

Modeling nuances

A stand-up collar consists of an upper and an inner part (collar). They can issue Various types neckline: with fastener, cutout or closed. To pattern a collar, first of all, a base is created on which the design will be sewn. To make the task easier, it is better to use a special thermal fabric. It is very important to correctly match the shape of the neck and the product itself. If the outer length is short, the fit around the neck will be tighter. Next, we will consider the nuances of constructing stand-up collars of different types.

Shirt collar on stand

First of all, you need to measure the length of the back and front at the neck of the shirt. Then draw a rectangle with a length equal to the sum of the neck measurements, add 1.5 cm to it. Then follow the instructions:

Measure a third of the length and make a mark.
Draw an arc from it, with a radius equal to the remaining length.
From the arc up, put a mark of 1.5 cm, connect these points with a line. The top of the arc can be erased.
Draw a perpendicular to the height of the rack.
Create another arc from the center of the mark and the first line.
Make a mark in the middle of the segment to the near arc.
Step back down about 1 cm, smoothly draw an arc from this mark to the edges of the segment.
Repeat the same for the top of the rack.
Form the corner into the desired shape.
To pattern a turn-down collar, the left side needs to be extended upward, drawing a horizontal line exactly along the top point of the corner.
Make a rise of about 2 cm, draw a line from the mark to the corner of the stand.
In the middle of this line, make a perpendicular mark to a height of 1 cm.
Draw an arc from the mark to the corner and middle of the collar.
Draw a line upward, perpendicular to the corner of the stand, about 6 cm long. After this, use a smooth arc to mark the line of the shirt collar from its middle to the corner, adding 1–2 cm.

You can sew a collar for a shirt either one-piece or cut-off, but in any case we cut it out with a stand-up collar.

Take measurements

Draw a rectangle and add 1.5 cm to it

Mark a third of the length

Draw an arc from it

Measure 1.5 cm from the arc upwards

Connect the dots

Draw a perpendicular to the height of the rack

Create another arc

Make a mark in the middle of the segment to the near arc

Step back down, draw an arc to the edges of the segment

Make the top of the rack

Draw an angle

Draw a horizontal line exactly along the top point of the corner

Mark the rise, draw a line from the mark to the corner of the post

Draw a perpendicular at the middle of the line

Draw an arc

Draw a perpendicular upward from the corner of the stand

Mark the shirt collar line

Finished pattern shirt collar on the stand

Tuxedo Collar

As in the first case, you need to take measurements from the neck, back and front of the shirt. Draw a rectangle, its length is equal to half the neck, its height is 7.5 cm.

From the middle of the neck, make a mark up 3.5 cm.
From the right side, make a mark up 1 cm, draw an arc from it to the central mark.
Now put a mark 1.5 cm from the lower right corner to the left, and 4.5 cm from the upper right corner, connect the resulting marks.
Along the right edge up, mark a point at a distance of 2.5 cm, make a right angle for the edge of the stand.

This type of collar is sewn exclusively for special occasions. It is often worn with a tuxedo, hence the name.

Mandarin collar

It is very simple to create a pattern for such an unusual shirt collar. Beginners are recommended to start with it.

Procedure:

Take measurements from the neckline of the back and front.
Draw a rectangle with a length equal to half the neck measurement and a height of 6.5 cm.
Make a mark up 4 cm from the lower left corner, and 3 cm from the lower right corner.
Place a mark from the top of the pattern at the bottom, and draw a line from it with an arc to the right mark.
From the upper right corner to the left, place a mark 1.5 cm, draw an arc from it to the left mark.

This collar will be an ideal complement to a women's blouse, dress and elegant men's shirts.

Funnel

After taking measurements from the neck of the back and front, you need to draw a rectangle with a length equal to half the neck measurement and a height of 5 cm. To model the collar, you need:

From the lower left and right corners, make marks up 4 cm.
Step back 3 cm from the left mark and draw an arc from it to the right mark.
Make an indent of 1 cm from the lower right corner, connect it with a line to the right mark.
Construct an arc from the bottom mark to the middle right one.

This collar pattern provides for a small height and expansion angle. If the model involves a wider neck, you can make a more right angle.

How to sew

Before sewing the collar into the neck, it must be treated with a special thermal fabric. Then the front parts of both parts are connected with pins. At this stage, you need to shape the future product, sweep away the seams, as a result of which the lower part will be slightly reduced. Along the outer and short sides you also need to sweep away the seams.

How to sew a collar step by step:

Without sewing the edge of the thermal fabric, sew the seams.
Trim the seam allowances, leaving about 3-4 millimeters from the edge of the fabric.
Turn the collar right side out, sweep the edges, and sew them into the neck of the shirt at a distance of about 5 millimeters.
There is an open edge of the collar left, it needs to be folded and swept away.
Connect the front parts of the reinforced stand and the collar, baste, and then stitch them along the edge of the thermal fabric without going into it.
Connect the front side of the product to the back of the shirt or jacket, sweep and stitch together.
There will be an allowance left on the short side, to which you need to sew the collar.
Cut through the neckline allowances, leaving about 3 millimeters to the seam.
Align both halves of the collar by sewing the edges together. Baste, taking into account that the allowances are on the reinforced part.

Video

Every seamstress has a lot of techniques in her arsenal that can be used to add zest to any item. Finishing with lace and accessories is the final stage, which forms appearance things. The collar pattern completes the modeling. The wide variety of models can make choosing difficult. A simple and easy-to-sew stand-up collar pattern is the best choice for both beginning seamstresses and experienced seamstresses.

Learning to create a stand-up collar pattern: application of the product

A collar of this cut goes well with any clothing. In a coat, for a blouse, for a dress - this one was originally male appearance The collar looks casual and elegant in a woman's wardrobe.

Stand collars tailored in this style are often used to decorate items in an office style. This model is also suitable for shirts, both men's and women's.

How to make a crochet collar.

The classic collar is easy to crochet. What kind of accessory you get - in a vintage style, fashionable and openwork, or strict and casual, depends only on the knitting pattern. It is very easy to knit such an accessory for beginners who have mastered the basic stitches - single crochet, double crochet.

To knit, you need to cast on a number of air loops equal to the circumference of the neck + 5 cm (in the end, the number of loops should be a multiple of three). Knitting is done in even rotating rows with single crochets. At the beginning of each row, 3 air loops are made - these are lifting loops that replace the first column. As soon as the height of the fabric becomes equal to the height of the neck, increases are made - in every third loop. An increase is knitting two loops from the same base. If you want the collar to be fluffy, the increases are made in several rows (3 - 5), if it is more strict, then 2 rows of increases are enough. Next, 5–9 rows are knitted using the same single crochet stitches to achieve a length at which the collar will slightly cover the shoulder. Decorative snaps or buttons are used to connect the collar fabric.

How to make a collar with knitting needles.

Made with knitting needles, this accessory looks no less advantageous. It can be either an independent element in clothing or complete the neckline. The easiest way to knit a stand is with long knitting needles. The circumference of the throat is measured using a centimeter. Cast on the required number of loops + 2 cm for a loose fit and pattern formation. The collar is knitted with a 2x2 ribbed pattern. This accessory will complement warm clothes well. You can use it to complete a sweater or raglan. The resulting collar is sewn in a circle to the neck of the product so that the ends meet on one side (front, back or side - depends on the choice of the craftsman).

Sewing a collar for outerwear.

For a jacket or raincoat, this collar cut is one of the most advantageous. Due to the wide variety of options for the fit of the collar and the design of the ends, the shape of the top line and the method of sewing, you can sew a product of any style.

It is not advisable for beginning seamstresses to immediately take on fur collars. Although this material is very beautiful and emphasizes the status and taste of the person who will wear fur-trimmed clothing, it is extremely difficult to work with. Furrier skills come with years and numerous trials; this material does not forgive mistakes. Unevenly cut skin will crumble and warp during sewing. Having gained patience and mastered simpler sewing options, you can begin to work on this material.

Master class on step-by-step cutting of a collar with your own hands

Let's look at a master class on how to create a pattern for a simple collar. Let's open the collar as in the photo.

The work is carried out using EMKO technology. The pattern is first drawn on paper, then transferred to fabric, and only then cut and sewn.

To start work, let's draw a right angle, the vertex of which is point A. From point A, measure 3-4 cm vertically upward and mark point A1. We measure the length of the neck (neck circumference + 2 cm for seams and loose fit). We set aside the length of the neck from point A1 and put point B. Using a smooth semicircular line we connect points B and A1 at a distance of one third (point B) of the distance from point B. Now from A1 upward we set off the desired width of the collar. Mark point A2. It is necessary to check that A1A2 is equal to BB1. This is approximately 3 - 6 cm. Now from A2 to the left we mark a distance of 2 cm and place A3. It is necessary to connect A3 and A1. We design the upper edge of the future collar according to the chosen model through points A3 and B1.

To add rigidity, a seal is placed in the collar.

Modeling the collar depends entirely on the seamstress. It can be with or without a fastener, with rounded ends in front or with sharp ones, go joint to joint or overlap. The chosen option, due to small differences from one to the other, will add zest to the thing. The stand is also used on a dress with a neckline. The thing turns out to be unusual - a strict collar compensates for and at the same time complements the open neckline.

It is worth considering that sewing a dress involves many stages. Before you take on a large item, you need to learn how to sew individual elements. Cutting a simple sweater with a collar will help you master the skill of taking measurements and basting a product, cutting, basting, adjusting and sewing.

The construction of a collar with a fastener at the back is no different from the construction of a regular one. Measurements are taken at the neckline, neck circumference and desired collar width are taken into account. Attaching is done so that the collar strips are at the back, exactly in the middle of the neck (at the level of the vertebra).

Similar collars can be with a lapel. Detailed description, which the master class provides, will help you easily understand the technology of taking measurements and constructing a pattern.

To get started, draw a rectangle ABCD. Next, the parts of the collar are formed.

Collar length. Let's assume that lines AB and DC are equal to 18 centimeters (measured neck semicircumference = neck circumference divided in half).

Collar width. Lines AD and BC are 4 centimeters.

Sewing line. The DC line is divided exactly in half. Then 1.5 centimeters are laid vertically upward from point C. Draw a sewing line from point D through the dividing point of the DC line, point 1.5, extending it beyond BC by 0.5 centimeters.

Lapel. From point B to the left, 10 centimeters are laid. Then, from point 0.5 through point B, draw a line of arbitrary length, on it from point 0.5 upwards 4 centimeters are laid down and connected to point 10. From point 0.5 upwards 12 centimeters are laid off. The resulting point is connected to point 10 with a dotted line and divided in half. Now 1 centimeter is laid down from the division point. A line is drawn through points 10, 1, 12.

Cut out in any way, sewn or knitted, the collar can be either removable or sewn on. Removable - acts as an independent accessory and goes in addition to evening dresses, wedding dresses. The sewn-on collar is integral with the product.

Video on the topic of the article

Collars are very varied in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. In this case, the stand can be either cut-off or one-piece with a flyaway. The stand and takeoff are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, so depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straightened or straight line increases the degree of fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To draw a collar drawing, you need to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We select it according to the model depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For high-stand collars, take smaller values; for flat-lying collars with a low stand, take larger values.

The neck line in products is formed either along the line of the base of the neck, or widens or deepens depending on the model features. The widening of the neckline in the area of the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the designed collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neckline of the front and back (measured along the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of sewing in the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight line of stitching, more - with a curved line).

3. Up vertically from point O, the amount of rise in the middle of the collar is plotted (from the table): OB = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

5. Using a smooth line, draw the line for sewing in the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width along the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from A to segment BA: AA 1 = BB 1 = 8-10 cm.

7. Connect straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 = 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of segments B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular measuring 1-1.5 cm.

9. Using a smooth curve coming out from point B 1 at a right angle to segment OB 1, form the take-off cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight line A to A 2

Pattern of a turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Thanks to the detachable stand, such a collar ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar fits closer to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

1. On the drawing basic basis widen the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

On the new front neckline, mark the point where the side is ledged at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the shoulder point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From point O, move up:

collar stand height – 3.5 cm,
height cutting stand collar – 4 cm,
position of the collar stand inflection line – 0.5 cm,
collar width – 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, put 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point, put 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw a vertical upward onto which to mark an arc from B with a radius of 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Design the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with Fig. The cut line of the stand begins at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the seam line connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the collar stitching section to the collar flap section.

9. Place the sections of the collar and stand along the cut lines on top of each other by 0.3 cm at the joint seam sections. Along the midline, the collar and stand-up should also be narrowed.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand

1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point O.

2. From point O, lay a horizontal segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, set aside the size of the collar shoulder, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (the allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: OB = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From point O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Draw up a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The size of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A, a perpendicular upward is restored to straight line OA, on which a segment equal to the height of the stand is laid: AA 2 = BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Shape the protrusion of the stand with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 is continued to the right 1-4 cm and placed in B 3.

A 3 B 3 = 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 with B 3 and extend it upward. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 = 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm to the right of the starting point A.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm.

3. Connect A straight to A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skidding).

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm.

4. Section AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downwards.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by about.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve for the stitching line of the stand through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars are restored upward to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid.

A 2 A 5 = A 3 A 6 = 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and from the middle of the segment restore a downward perpendicular of 1 cm in size.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is designed with a rounded line.

9. The line for sewing the collar into the stand is designed with the same bend as the upper cut of the stand.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up, lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 = A 4 V.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar width: B 1 B 2 = 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2 draw a horizontal line to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5 is designated B 3.

12. From B 3 in a straight line, set aside 1-5 cm.

B 3 B 4 = 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it upward and put 9-14 cm on it from A 5.

A 5 B 5 = 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of a smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a high cutting stand

High stand This strictly shaped collar is fastened end-to-end at the center front line with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the modified neck of the product is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar rise.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upward and from the resulting point B, draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Form the sections of the collar stand as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper edge of the stand. From this point, draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, and from the last point draw a vertical line up.

8. Design the collar sections in accordance with the drawing.

A stand-up collar is most often used on blouses made of different fabrics that have a fastening all the way up. He can also be found on outerwear, in models for children. We will show you how to create a pattern according to individual measurements quickly and easily.

Preparing to build

To build, you need to know the length of the neck of the product for which it is intended. Using a flexible tape measure, measure the length of the neckline of half the front and half of the back, placing the measuring tape on the edge and accurately following the contour of the neckline.

If there is an allowance for the fastener on the front, it is not taken into account in the length of the neckline; the end of the centimeter is set clearly on the line of the middle front.

The collar pattern will fit on an A4 sheet, so finding paper for it will not be difficult.

We will present the basic principle of construction, and indicate what will be affected by changing some of the values used.

We build a right angle with the vertex at point O. If you are using a sheet of A4 paper, you can take the lower left corner of the sheet as the starting point. The vertical line from point O is the middle of the collar.

Next, you need to decide on the amount of rise to point B, which can range from 1.5 to 5-10 cm. The larger this size, the more flat the collar will lie on the product (the height of the stand will be less). For a clearly defined stand (3.5-4 cm), it will be enough to set aside 1.5-2 cm, and, for example, for a stand with a height of 2.5-3 cm, it is necessary to set aside 4-6 cm.

Now we calculate the length along the stitching line; for this type of collar we use the formula:

BA = Neck length plus 0.5 minus 0.1*OB.

We remind you that the length of the neck, in this case, is equal to the sum of the lengths of half the front and half the back.

Point A can be set with a compass (with radius BA) or a ruler, holding its end at point B and measuring the resulting value BA at the intersection with the horizontal from point O.

Along line BA from point B, set aside the length of the back neckline, measured earlier, and place point C. Divide the segment BC in half and set it up perpendicular to the segment 4-5 mm, draw a stitching line along the back as follows:

from point B, build a perpendicular line to OB 1.5-2 cm long;
then smoothly draw a line through the 4-5 mm point to point C.

Also divide the segment CA in half and lower the perpendicular by 2-3 mm. Start the stitching line from point C, smoothly lower it to 2-3 mm and move to A so that in the last 1-1.5 cm it coincides with straight line OA.

Now measure vertically from point B the height of the stand that was taken into account at the beginning and place point B1, then set aside the width of the collar from the bend and place point B2.

The shape and width of the collar part depends on the intended model; it can be rounded or made longer and sharper. In our version, from point A we lay up a perpendicular whose length is BB2 plus 1 cm and place point A3. To the right of it, at a right angle, set aside 4-5 cm and place point A4.

Now connect points A4 and B2, divide this segment in half and put 1-1.5 cm up from this point, place point A5. Draw a smooth outline of the collar from point B2 (drawing the beginning of the line perpendicular to OB by 1.5-2 cm), through point A5 to point A4.

Pattern stand-up collar ready!

Flat collars.

This is one of the types turn-down collars.

Flat collars are characterized by a small stand-up or its complete absence. This type of collar is mainly used in women's blouses and dresses, as well as in children's clothing and can come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The drawing of a flat collar is built directly on the drawings of the front and back. First, we decide on the model of the dress or blouse and match the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For convenience, we close it during construction. chest dart on the shelf, and on the back there is a shoulder dart.

Rice. 2

Then we place the back and front patterns on a blank sheet of paper, combining the shoulder sections so that the points at the base of the neckline (A4 and B3) coincide, and the points at the ends of the shoulder lines (P1 and P5) overlap each other by 1 - 3 cm. The smaller the approach, the lower the height of the stand. With greater approach, the rise of the rack increases.

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We trace the outline neck, partially middle front and back seams, and armhole line.
Look at the drawing to have an idea of which lines of the drawing are involved in the construction.
We remove the back and front patterns and continue constructing the collar itself on the sheet of paper where we drew the outline.

Stitching line The collar should exactly follow the line of the neckline of the back and front.

Collar width in the middle (distance АШ) and at the ends (В4К), the departure line (ШК), as well as the starting point of stitching (К) in the middle of the front are determined by the model of your dress or blouse, i.e. you yourself. The collar flap is formed by a smooth line connecting points W and K.
It should be remembered that the departure line should approach the line of the middle of the back at right angles.

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Important: When making patterns, you should know the following.
The pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part away from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without tightening or deformation - that’s it. So that during the basting process the stitching line does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of perekant throughout the entire flight - that's two. And ultimately, to ensure a good fit of the collar, and hence appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour
- this will be the top collar. Look at Fig.6
Fig6 Cutting details.

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The share line basically always corresponds to the fold line. Why mostly? Because you can place the midline obliquely. And if you are sewing a product from fabric with a pattern (check, stripe, coupon or just a large pattern), then you are guided by the need to match this pattern.
When copying on the pattern, it is necessary to put marks (notches) that determine the control points of connection of the collar with the neck at the level shoulder seam and the middle of the back.
The last step is to copy the collar pattern itself onto a separate sheet of paper. We will end up with two cut pieces with a fold. Upper and lower collar or aka collar.

Ready! You can start cutting. Don't forget to allow seam allowances when cutting. It is usually customary to add 0.75cm along the entire contour of the collar. If you are new to sewing or think that you do not have enough experience, make a pattern with allowances on the seams. In this case, you will just have to chalk the pattern on the fabric and cut along the chalking line.

After making the pattern, it is better to test it on inexpensive fabric to make sure that it looks exactly as you expected.

The departure line, and hence the shape of the collar, can have a wide variety of configurations. Figure 6 shows 4 types of flat-lying collars with different departure line configurations. You can add to this collection.

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We offer as an example several options for flat collars.
In this example, we deepened the neck slightly.

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In the next example we will widen the neck.

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And one more option, in which the starting point for sewing in the collar is slightly offset from the center of the front. This option is used if, for example, a ruffle is sewn along the edge of the collar. Or if you intend to attach any decoration (accessory), such as a brooch, bow or flower, etc., in the center of the neckline. Or if you just decided so, your desire alone is enough.

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Having mastered the principle of construction itself, you will be able to design any shape of a flat-lying collar on this basis. Starting from school, sailor and ending with an unlimited number of fantasy collars.
Be creative and enjoy your creations.

I draw your attention to the recommendations highlighted in words Important or Main. Be sure to take them into account. Usually they do not refer to a single episode, but to the total amount of information or to a significant part of it. In order not to repeat ourselves, we highlight it, focusing your attention on it. Although we will still remind you of this from time to time.

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