What colors to use to tint teddy bears. Ears, nose, eyes and head tinting Who are we making the toy for?
When you sew a soft toy with your own hands, there always comes a time when the toy’s face needs to be brought to life. Make the nose a little darker, highlight the area of the eyes and mouth. It's not difficult to do this. Today I will share with you my experience of tinting using the example of a Teddy bear toy. We will need:
- head soft toy;
- oil paints;
- flat brushes;
- a sheet of white paper;
- cotton pad or cloth.
Load the brush with the main color, in this case brown, and “paint” with the brush on the paper until the color almost disappears. Now the brush will leave a barely noticeable haze.
We start tinting from the nose of the toy, from the darkest place and directly around the nose. Rub the paint into the fabric. First around the nose, then in the form of a halo, moving to the bridge of the nose. Notice that the color becomes lighter and lighter and a gradient effect appears.
Now we will do the same with those places where the eyes will be. We stretch the color from the center outward. Next, let's make accents. For this we need darker paint. I took the black one. We again carry out the same procedure of drawing on paper.
Very carefully darken the areas around the nose (especially at the top) and in the center of the eye. Do you see how the bear's face is becoming more and more realistic?
Now let's start shading. Take a second brush with longer bristles and use it to blend the border between the main color and the accent color so that the transition is not visible. Compare two photos: top and bottom.
That's all! The head of our Teddy bear toy is ready. The oil will finally dry out after 2-3 days and become slightly lighter. After this, all you have to do is add eyes and your bear will look like it’s alive.
Tinting a soft toy is needed to make it more realistic, unique and individual.
To do this, they resort to tinting its individual parts. These can be arms, legs, the area around the nose, eyes, and ears.
Proper tinting, like makeup, completes the image you have chosen.
There are many ways to tint.
I will tell you about one of them - tinting with a dry brush with oil paints. You can select paints depending on their compatibility with the fabric of your toy; I prefer the following paint colors
*mars brown light
*mars brown dark
* shungite or gas soot - black color paints for tinting toys
If your toy is light, in beige tones, then take the first paint, if it is darker, then take the second. Take the third if the toy is white or gray. And one more nuance: do tinting only in daylight!
Before starting work, we must rid the paint of excess oil; to do this, spread it in a thin layer on paper. And after an hour, the paint is ready for use. paints for tinting toys
Determine the areas that you will tint. If this is the head, then this is the eye area, nose and ears. Tinting the toy is done mainly before making the nose and eyes, so to outline the tinting halo, you can use tailor’s pins to apply a fabric nose and eyes .If you have already made the nose and eyes, stick tape on them so as not to get them dirty.
I apply the tint to the toy with a flat brush, bristle number 10. We dip the brush into the paint and wipe it on the paper until there is practically nothing left on it.
Let's start with the nose. The brush goes from the center in different directions, that is, the center of the nose is the darkest.
We tint the eyes. Also from the center to the sides, you should end up with the darkest place along the eye. This is what you should get approximately: tinting the eyes and nose of the toy Step 5.
After drying, you can sew on the eyes and nose themselves. When using oil paints, be extremely careful. To begin with, try tinting on scraps of fabric so as not to spoil the toy; oil paints do not wash off well, so any mistake you make will be difficult to remove later.
And oil paints tend to absorb well, so when the toy has dried and the color seems pale to you, you can update the “makeup”, but be careful with black color - sometimes it does not absorb!
Also be careful with umber paints, they can look like dirt if applied too much!
Don't forget to tint the toy's ears (if any). We tint the ears along the seam.
We tint the heels along the seam and the palms.
At your discretion, you can tint anything: shoulders, upper part of the brisket (along the seam), upper part of the thighs, hump, tummy.
Whatever you have enough imagination for, but don’t overdo it - you don’t want the toy to get lost against the background of your tinting and look like a painted soft lump.
Well, that's all! Your toy is ready! Let it dry a little and you can enjoy it for yourself and others!
P.S A little about paints and tinting tools.
Paints are one of the tinting materials, and of course the most popular. Most often they use oil paints, less often acrylic ones. Some use pastel crayons or pencil powder when tinting.
1.Oil paints.
Oil paints are pigments that are ground with oil. These paints are generally unique, they help achieve amazing effects.
The thinner oil is drying oil. Oil paints dry very slowly, and this is the peculiarity of working with it.
Oil paints come in two varieties.
Rubbed paints are paste paints, they are very thick and must be diluted with drying oil, they can even be in powder form.
Ready-made paints do not need to be mixed with drying oil; they are already ready for use.
Oil paints have a shelf life of 1 to three years. They can be mixed and made into different colors.
Oil paints are diluted with solvents, read about them later in the article.
Acrylic paints.
Multifunctional, practical, with less fuss.
When dry, they create a very durable and water-insoluble film. Therefore, after using acrylic paints, the product does not need to be varnished.
Acrylic is very convenient because it can be used on any surface - wood, glass, leather, even metal.
But here you need to take into account the quality of the acrylic, since it can also be synthetic.
Before work, you can dilute it. You can use water, but it’s better to use special solvents, so the acrylic will lie better on the surface and dry faster.
Acrylic paint comes in both matte and glossy (with shine). These colors have a very rich and bright palette. It’s very cool that it also comes with special effects: it can contain various inclusions such as sparkles, sparkles, and can be fluorescent.
Pastel - most often you saw it as crayons or pencils without a frame, they can be round or rectangular. If you rub a piece of chalk on the base, a layer of pastel paint dust will remain on it, which penetrates between the fibers. Plus, pastels also lie on any surface, they do not need to be diluted with anything, and you can change the color scheme by applying one color to another. They are not transparent and are easy to shade. It is very convenient that light pastel can be seen against a darker background and vice versa. Pastels can be dry, oil and wax. Dry pastel has a chalky base, it is like “velvet” on paper. It is represented by not bright colors, mostly pastel ones. In the dry pastel technique, shading is often used, which helps to achieve soft transitions from one color to another. This pastel pattern is fixed with a special varnish. Oil pastels are the complete opposite of dry pastels. This type of chalk has an oily, fatty base. On the surface it looks three-dimensional and has a rich colorful palette. This pastel is made from pressing pigments and linseed oil, hence its properties. Wax Pastels - These are made from the highest quality pigments and wax.
Names of paints.
The cadmium group is red and yellow colors and their shades. They are different in their saturation, they can be lighter, they can be darker.
Cobalt group - Includes a mixture of green, blue and purple colors.
Earthen Group - This brown colors and their shades, also of different saturations. The name of these colors says about the color: umber, red lead, ocher, sienna, sepia and others
Ocher - includes different shades and names: golden, burnt, “raw”.
Kraplak - There are light, medium-light and dark, maybe purple, red.
Whitewash - titanium, zinc, lead. They have different shades. The whitest ones are titanium, and the grayest ones are lead.
Gas soot - Very black in color, and thioindigo black - has a slightly blue tint.
Minium - the color of a brick).
Sepia - deep dark brown.
Cadmium reds are various shades of red
Cinnabar - rowan color, closer to red-orange
Herbal greens - like grass, only darker
Emerald green - as the name
Chromium oxide - swamp color
Green cobalt - like young grass
Ultramarine blue - blue, very bright
Solvents.
Solvents are substances in which oils and resins are dissolved and evenly distributed.
Turpentine
It's easy essential oil which they receive different ways from the resin of coniferous trees. Turpentine, depending on the degree of its purification, comes in different shades: copper-brown, yellowish, reddish-yellow, lemon, and also colorless. The cleaner it is, the more transparent it is. Turpentine has a pleasant, but pungent smell of pine. If you dilute paints with turpentine, they dry faster. Turpentine is very convenient in its use and in its property, it strengthens the oil film. Turpentine is a very volatile liquid, so do not forget it close tightly!
White Spirit
It is also a fairly commonly used solvent. It is used for very thick oil paints. The smell is reminiscent of gasoline, but its advantage is that it can be stored for a very long time.
It is rarely used, mainly for diluting nitro paints and nitro varnishes.
Drying agent (fatty acid salts)
They are added to non-aqueous base paints, mainly for faster drying.
In powder they are used for cooking drying oil. They speed up the drying of paints, but the film after them becomes very fragile - this is a drawback of the drier.
Brushes.
The main tools in tinting are, of course, brushes.
Differences in brush shape.
The shape of the beam and the purpose of the brush are directly related.
Round - universal in its application. With it you can vary any thickness of the line when applying. This is an excellent brush for tinting, texture, and working on details.
Flat - allows you to apply broad strokes and holds a lot of paint when dipping
Oval - it is used mainly for smoothing out unevenness, but only for freshly applied paint, giving a smooth surface to the product. Very convenient when transitioning from one color to another.
The fan is indispensable for shading paint; it can be used to soften contours and remove texture.
Stencil - it has a blunt and flat end, and it is as if paint is driven into it through a stencil. It is mainly used when a pattern is applied to a product through a stencil, hence the name.
Flutz - EE is used mainly for painting and mainly with watercolors.
Differences between brushes by bristle type.
Brushes can be made from a wide variety of bristles.
Squirrel (brown color, soft brush).
Kolonkovye (looks like a light brown elastic pile).
Sable (red-brown elastic pile).
Pony (grayish-colored, soft, sometimes wavy pile).
Goat (soft white brush).
Cat (well, a very soft white brush).
Pig bristle is the best brush for acrylic and oil paints.
Synthetic brushes are shiny brushes, unlike natural brushes they are more durable, and the stroke is smoother, but this is only for acrylic paints. In general, synthetic brushes behave differently with different paints.
Differences by numbers.
Everything is simple here: the higher the number of the brush, the more voluminous it is.
A brush of a certain number is chosen depending on the size of the surface to be covered with one paint (one color). The larger this surface, the larger the brush number. Each brush number can also have a different length of bristles.
Rules for handling brushes.
If you leave the brush in a can of paint, the bristles will break and the handle, even worse, may come off!
- After work, brushes are thoroughly rinsed and put away in a pencil case!!!
- If you store brushes vertically, the bristles must be at the top
- Remember a clean brush is the key to its long life! (just like in Soviet times in a children's camp)))))
- At least once a month you should thoroughly wash your brushes in soapy water.
-Tip: Use sticks or old brushes to stir or mix paints, so you don’t have to rinse your working brush to remove excess paint.
- If the pile is wrinkled, you can soap it and leave it to dry for about an hour, then rinse off the soap, and the pile will straighten out.
- When working with oil paints, rinse your brushes in solvent, then wring them out with paper, then wash them in warm water and soap and wrap them tightly in paper, so they should be stored until the next use, this is necessary so that the ends of the brush do not become fluffy, otherwise they will be unusable for use.
- If you want to reduce the pile, first cut it, and then sand the edges with sandpaper.
Color tinting technique.
Basic tools that should be on hand when tinting.
Palette - It is very convenient and you can find it in any craft store, or you can make it yourself. In general, any straight surface is suitable for a palette.
Film - This is what you would rub your brush on.
A container for water - any jar, mug. Only then it cannot be used for food purposes.
Brushes - depending on what you will be doing and what effects you want to achieve, choose brushes of different sizes and shapes.
A sponge will help you create a texture effect.
Paper napkins or toilet paper.
Newspapers or rugs to protect your work surface from paints.
Solvent.
Good luck and creative success to you!
Tinting a soft toy is needed to make it more realistic, unique and individual.
To do this, they resort to tinting its individual parts. These can be arms, legs, the area around the nose, eyes, and ears.
Proper tinting, like makeup, completes the image you have chosen.
There are many ways to tint.
I will tell you about one of them - tinting with a dry brush with oil paints. You can select paints depending on their compatibility with the fabric of your toy; I prefer the following paint colors
*mars brown light
*mars brown dark
* shungite or gas soot - black color paints for tinting toys
If your toy is light, in beige tones, then take the first paint, if it is darker, then take the second. Take the third if the toy is white or gray. And one more nuance: do tinting only in daylight!
Before starting work, we must rid the paint of excess oil; to do this, spread it in a thin layer on paper. And after an hour, the paint is ready for use. paints for tinting toys
Determine the areas that you will tint. If this is the head, then this is the eye area, nose and ears. Tinting the toy is done mainly before making the nose and eyes, so to outline the tinting halo, you can use tailor’s pins to apply a fabric nose and eyes .If you have already made the nose and eyes, stick tape on them so as not to get them dirty.
I apply the tint to the toy with a flat brush, bristle number 10. We dip the brush into the paint and wipe it on the paper until there is practically nothing left on it.
Let's start with the nose. The brush goes from the center in different directions, that is, the center of the nose is the darkest.
We tint the eyes. Also from the center to the sides, you should end up with the darkest place along the eye. This is what you should get approximately: tinting the eyes and nose of the toy Step 5.
After drying, you can sew on the eyes and nose themselves. When using oil paints, be extremely careful. To begin with, try tinting on scraps of fabric so as not to spoil the toy; oil paints do not wash off well, so any mistake you make will be difficult to remove later.
And oil paints tend to absorb well, so when the toy has dried and the color seems pale to you, you can update the “makeup”, but be careful with black color - sometimes it does not absorb!
Also be careful with umber paints, they can look like dirt if applied too much!
Don't forget to tint the toy's ears (if any). We tint the ears along the seam.
We tint the heels along the seam and the palms.
At your discretion, you can tint anything: shoulders, upper part of the brisket (along the seam), upper part of the thighs, hump, tummy.
Whatever you have enough imagination for, but don’t overdo it - you don’t want the toy to get lost against the background of your tinting and look like a painted soft lump.
Well, that's all! Your toy is ready! Let it dry a little and you can enjoy it for yourself and others!
P.S A little about paints and tinting tools.
Paints are one of the tinting materials, and of course the most popular. Most often they use oil paints, less often acrylic ones. Some use pastel crayons or pencil powder when tinting.
1.Oil paints.
Oil paints are pigments that are ground with oil. These paints are generally unique, they help achieve amazing effects.
The thinner oil is drying oil. Oil paints dry very slowly, and this is the peculiarity of working with it.
Oil paints come in two varieties.
Rubbed paints are paste paints, they are very thick and must be diluted with drying oil, they can even be in powder form.
Ready-made paints do not need to be mixed with drying oil; they are already ready for use.
Oil paints have a shelf life of 1 to three years. They can be mixed and made into different colors.
Oil paints are diluted with solvents, read about them later in the article.
Acrylic paints.
Multifunctional, practical, with less fuss.
When dry, they create a very durable and water-insoluble film. Therefore, after using acrylic paints, the product does not need to be varnished.
Acrylic is very convenient because it can be used on any surface - wood, glass, leather, even metal.
But here you need to take into account the quality of the acrylic, since it can also be synthetic.
Before work, you can dilute it. You can use water, but it’s better to use special solvents, so the acrylic will lie better on the surface and dry faster.
Acrylic paint comes in both matte and glossy (with shine). These colors have a very rich and bright palette. It’s very cool that it also comes with special effects: it can contain various inclusions such as sparkles, sparkles, and can be fluorescent.
Pastel - most often you saw it as crayons or pencils without a frame, they can be round or rectangular. If you rub a piece of chalk on the base, a layer of pastel paint dust will remain on it, which penetrates between the fibers. Plus, pastels also lie on any surface, they do not need to be diluted with anything, and you can change the color scheme by applying one color to another. They are not transparent and are easy to shade. It is very convenient that light pastel can be seen against a darker background and vice versa. Pastels can be dry, oil and wax. Dry pastel has a chalky base, it is like “velvet” on paper. It is represented by not bright colors, mostly pastel ones. In the dry pastel technique, shading is often used, which helps to achieve soft transitions from one color to another. This pastel pattern is fixed with a special varnish. Oil pastels are the complete opposite of dry pastels. This type of chalk has an oily, fatty base. On the surface it looks three-dimensional and has a rich colorful palette. This pastel is made from pressing pigments and linseed oil, hence its properties. Wax Pastels - These are made from the highest quality pigments and wax.
Names of paints.
The cadmium group is red and yellow colors and their shades. They are different in their saturation, they can be lighter, they can be darker.
Cobalt group - Includes a mixture of green, blue and purple colors.
The earth group - These are brown colors and their shades, also of different saturations. The name of these colors says about the color: umber, red lead, ocher, sienna, sepia and others
Ocher - includes different shades and names: golden, burnt, “raw”.
Kraplak - There are light, medium-light and dark, maybe purple, red.
Whitewash - titanium, zinc, lead. They have different shades. The whitest ones are titanium, and the grayest ones are lead.
Gas soot - Very black in color, and thioindigo black - has a slightly blue tint.
Minium - the color of a brick).
Sepia - deep dark brown.
Cadmium reds are various shades of red
Cinnabar - rowan color, closer to red-orange
Herbal greens - like grass, only darker
Emerald green - as the name
Chromium oxide - swamp color
Green cobalt - like young grass
Ultramarine blue - blue, very bright
Solvents.
Solvents are substances in which oils and resins are dissolved and evenly distributed.
Turpentine
This is a light essential oil that is obtained in different ways from the resin of coniferous trees. Turpentine, depending on the degree of its purification, comes in different shades: copper-brown, yellowish, reddish-yellow, lemon, and also colorless. The cleaner it is, the more transparent it is. Turpentine has a pleasant, but pungent smell of pine. If you dilute paints with turpentine, they dry faster. Turpentine is very convenient in its use and in its property, it strengthens the oil film. Turpentine is a very volatile liquid, so do not forget it close tightly!
White Spirit
It is also a fairly commonly used solvent. It is used for very thick oil paints. The smell is reminiscent of gasoline, but its advantage is that it can be stored for a very long time.
It is rarely used, mainly for diluting nitro paints and nitro varnishes.
Drying agent (fatty acid salts)
They are added to non-aqueous base paints, mainly for faster drying.
In powder they are used for cooking drying oil. They speed up the drying of paints, but the film after them becomes very fragile - this is a drawback of the drier.
Brushes.
The main tools in tinting are, of course, brushes.
Differences in brush shape.
The shape of the beam and the purpose of the brush are directly related.
Round - universal in its application. With it you can vary any thickness of the line when applying. This is an excellent brush for tinting, texture, and working on details.
Flat - allows you to apply broad strokes and holds a lot of paint when dipping
Oval - it is used mainly for smoothing out unevenness, but only for freshly applied paint, giving a smooth surface to the product. Very convenient when transitioning from one color to another.
The fan is indispensable for shading paint; it can be used to soften contours and remove texture.
Stencil - it has a blunt and flat end, and it is as if paint is driven into it through a stencil. It is mainly used when a pattern is applied to a product through a stencil, hence the name.
Flutz - EE is used mainly for painting and mainly with watercolors.
Differences between brushes by bristle type.
Brushes can be made from a wide variety of bristles.
Squirrel (brown color, soft brush).
Kolonkovye (looks like a light brown elastic pile).
Sable (red-brown elastic pile).
Pony (grayish-colored, soft, sometimes wavy pile).
Goat (soft white brush).
Cat (well, a very soft white brush).
Pig bristle is the best brush for acrylic and oil paints.
Synthetic brushes are shiny brushes, unlike natural brushes they are more durable, and the stroke is smoother, but this is only for acrylic paints. In general, synthetic brushes behave differently with different paints.
Differences by numbers.
Everything is simple here: the higher the number of the brush, the more voluminous it is.
A brush of a certain number is chosen depending on the size of the surface to be covered with one paint (one color). The larger this surface, the larger the brush number. Each brush number can also have a different length of bristles.
Rules for handling brushes.
If you leave the brush in a can of paint, the bristles will break and the handle, even worse, may come off!
- After work, brushes are thoroughly rinsed and put away in a pencil case!!!
- If you store brushes vertically, the bristles must be at the top
- Remember a clean brush is the key to its long life! (just like in Soviet times in a children's camp)))))
- At least once a month you should thoroughly wash your brushes in soapy water.
-Tip: Use sticks or old brushes to stir or mix paints, so you don’t have to rinse your working brush to remove excess paint.
- If the pile is wrinkled, you can soap it and leave it to dry for about an hour, then rinse off the soap, and the pile will straighten out.
- When working with oil paints, rinse your brushes in solvent, then wring them out with paper, then wash them in warm water and soap and wrap them tightly in paper, so they should be stored until the next use, this is necessary so that the ends of the brush do not become fluffy, otherwise they will be unusable for use.
- If you want to reduce the pile, first cut it, and then sand the edges with sandpaper.
Color tinting technique.
Basic tools that should be on hand when tinting.
Palette - It is very convenient and you can find it in any craft store, or you can make it yourself. In general, any straight surface is suitable for a palette.
Film - This is what you would rub your brush on.
A container for water - any jar, mug. Only then it cannot be used for food purposes.
Brushes - depending on what you will be doing and what effects you want to achieve, choose brushes of different sizes and shapes.
A sponge will help you create a texture effect.
Paper napkins or toilet paper.
Newspapers or rugs to protect your work surface from paints.
Solvent.
Good luck and creative success to you!
Tinting Teddy bears is a process of “revitalizing” a toy, which emphasizes its character and makes it expressive. appearance and puts an end to the creation of the intended image.
Master teddyist Natalya, who creates under the nickname NatalKa Creations, will share her experience with us in this regard.
For 2 years now I have been diligently making teddy bears, and for more than 3 years I have experience in creating designer textile toys (in the beginning there were dolls).
If you are interested in the process of creating teddy bears, you may be interested in knowing what colors I use to tint the teddy bears and their friends.
So, what colors can you use? tinting teddy bears and their friends.
Markers (airbrush or artistic)— markers are applied to the pile or fabric and shaded. I have experience working with Faber-Castell art markers, but I use them mainly as auxiliary tinting - to slightly correct the rim of the nose, enhance the color of the eyelids, etc.
Dry pastel- pastel is applied to the pile with a brush, it fits well on light surfaces, but is difficult on dark ones. Gives excellent transitions. Big minus: if you accidentally touch a place that is not intended for tinting, it will be very difficult to remove the pastel. In my opinion, pastels are more suitable for teddy bears made from regular fabric rather than mohair, as well as for felted toys.
Acrylic paints (art or textile)— applied to a fleecy surface or fabric, does not blend very well, and dries quickly, which I consider a disadvantage. I do not recommend using them for beginners. Acrylic paints I only use it for coloring glass eyes.
Oil paints (art)— my favorite and main type of tinting, I recommend it to everyone! The method of application is different for each artist: some apply with a dry brush, others dilute the paint a little with pinene or linseed oil (the main thing is not to overdo it so that the pile does not stick together). With oil paints you will never do anything wrong, they can be easily removed (within reasonable limits: it will be difficult to remove black paint from white fur) with solvent or oil, and provide excellent transitions and shadows. If you overdo it with linseed oil, you can wipe everything off with a napkin. One small drawback: the oil takes a long time to dry, your work will “ripen” for a day or two.
Eyeshadow (cosmetics)— I haven’t used it myself and don’t recommend it to anyone, but there is such a method of tinting. This is, so to speak, not the best alternative to dry pastels. If you want to make original collectible bears, then the quality of your works must be at a high level. If the teddy is for yourself, why not try this method?)
Attention! Practice on pieces (residues) and wipe the brush well.
