This pattern is designed for beginner seamstresses and is the most in a clear way creating patterns according to individual sizes. The secret of an ideal, extremely accurate pattern is that it must be constructed according to individual measurements taken from the specific figure of the person for whom the dress will be sewn.

This page will look at an example of constructing an easy and simple pattern for the base of a tight-fitting women's dress, with long sleeve. Detailed description with a step-by-step depiction of the construction of the pattern drawing, shown in the pictures.

Let's look at the classic pattern for a women's dress "Sheath" with long sleeves, size 42. The length of this product will be cut slightly below the knee. There are many options for creating a pattern drawing for this dress, but how to create a light, simple and correct one, which also fits perfectly on a person’s figure? This can be done using the Italian method, which was also developed for constructing a classic sheath dress. This option for creating a pattern for a sheath dress model is easy to calculate using simple formulas. In addition, it is simplified in the construction of a drawing of a model design for a dress pattern.

It is this method of construction that is desirable for beginning seamstresses who have only a basic understanding of sewing skills and few professional cutting and sewing skills. The proposed example of constructing a base pattern is basic for all classic dresses, tight-fitting, tight-fitting and fitted, as well as fitted shoulder products. The pictures in table number 1 show the places where the figure is measured to take a specific measurement. See all this below.

List of measurements, their names and symbols, for the sheath dress model with long sleeves.

The dimensional values ​​that we will need when constructing a pattern are taken in a certain sequence, as shown for example in Table 1. All measurements must be taken (measured) individually (from the figure of the person for whom it is planned to cut and sew the dress). How to correctly measure your figure individually is described in detail.

The figure is measured using a special measuring tape. Special attention Care should be taken to ensure that the body is in its natural position when measuring. That is, it is unnecessary to pull in your stomach, pull your shoulders back or in front, unnaturally straighten, raise or lower them, they should not be.

When taking measurements, you need to accurately mark the waist line on your figure. This can be done using braid or elastic, which is tied around the narrowest place on the figure.

The correctness of the pattern drawing will depend on how accurately the measurements are taken. In addition, the table on this page has pictures that show the method and location of body measurement. The values ​​recorded in the table are replaced with your dimensional characteristics (measurements).

A detailed description of the construction of a drawing of a tight-fitting sheath dress using the Italian method, as the easiest way to make a good pattern.

Before constructing a drawing for the pattern of the back or front front, work begins by constructing a mesh of the initial design, that is, from the base mesh.

The basic mesh of the backrest consists of 4 rectangles (Fig. 1).

We start constructing the base mesh from the vertical line of the middle of the back. On the left side of a sheet of paper draw a straight vertical segment AN, which is equal (Di) .
AN = Product length (Di)= 100cm.

On the vertical segment AN we construct the first rectangle with sides AP = GG1 and AG = PG1.

Parallel segments are equal to each other:

• AG = PG1= Back armhole height (Vprz) = 23 cm.
• AP = GG1 =((shoulder arc) Dп+ (increase constant value)) : 2cm = (38cm + 2cm) : 2cm = 20cm.

Next second rectangle with sides GT = G2T3 and GG2 = TT3.

GT = G2T3= back length to waist (Dst) - Back armhole height (Vprz) = 42cm – 23cm = 19cm

For control, we double-check: from the drawing, segment AT = back length to waist (Dst) =42cm.

GG2 = TT3= (Half bust 2 (Pog 2) + increase) : 2cm – 1cm = (45cm + 2cm) : 2cm – 1= 22.5cm.

Draw a third rectangle with sides TB = T1B1 and TT1 = BB1.

TB = T1B1 = Wb(hip height) = 18 cm.

TT1 = BB1 = (Pob (Half-hip circumference) + increase): 2cm – 1cm = (48cm + 2cm): 2cm – 1cm = 24cm.

We build the last fourth rectangle with sides BN = B1N1 and BB1 = NN1.

The result of constructing a drawing of the basic mesh of the backrest, see Figure 1.

Constructing a pattern for the back panel without a shoulder dart (Fig. 2).

Neck.

On the base grid from point A we build a rectangle with sides AA1 = A2A3 and AA2 = A1A3.

Parties AA1 = A2A3= 2 cm (standard size).

AA2 = A1A3 = (Posh : 3cm) + increase = (19cm: 3cm) + 1cm = 7.3 cm.

It is necessary to decorate the neck of the back through points A1A2 with a smooth arched concave line, see Figure 2.

Shoulder line slope.

To find the shoulder line A2 P1, you need to draw an arc upward with a radius equal to the measurements from point T, which is located on the waist line Military industrial complex .

The intersection of an arc with a vertical straight line PG1 denoted by a conventional letter P1.

TP1 = Military industrial complex (Oblique shoulder height) = 42cm.

NOTE: To draw an arc of the appropriate radius without a compass, you can use an ordinary ruler with a length of approximately 40cm to 65cm. We align the zero mark on the ruler, aligning it with the point we need on the drawing, which is located on the waist line (T). This is our starting point and will be the center of the circle. Then, retreating the required amount opposite this division and the place we need on the drawing, we draw an arc, while slowly moving the pencil and ruler at the same time so that an arc is formed. The dots, zero on the ruler and the original (center) can rotate around the circle, but not move from their places to the sides. In the same way, you can draw an arc from other starting points.

The slope of the shoulder on the pattern is drawn with a straight line, connecting the points A2 and P1(Figure 2).

Construction of the armhole.

On the vertical straight line G1P we measure the segments:

• Top G1G3= 0.1 × G1P1 (measure from the drawing) = 0.1 × 18.5 cm = 1.85 cm.
• G1P2= 0.4 × G1P1= 0.4 × 18.5 cm = 7.4 cm.

From point P2 to the left we measure a distance equal to 1.5 cm (standard value) and mark it with a conventional point P3.
P2P3 = 1.5 cm.
Through dots P1, P3, G3, G2 draw a concave armhole line.

Side section of the back shelf.

The width of the back pattern drawing along the waist line.

TT2 = (Sweat + increase): 2cm + (back dart opening) - 1cm = (35cm + 2cm): 2cm + 3cm – 1cm = 20.5cm.

We draw the side cut with a smooth vertical curved line through the points G2, T2, B1, N1.

The center of the waist dart on the back flanges.

Finding the location and center waist dart.

THAT= 7.5 cm.

Through point O, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the lines of the chest and hips.

The width of the groove opening on the back.

Our pattern uses a standard tuck width (width), which is equal to BB1= 3cm.

OB = OB1 = BB1: 2cm = 3cm: 2cm = 1.5cm.

Find the depth (length) of the dart B2, O, B3.

On a vertical line passing through point O, we measure standard values, upwards OB2= 16cm and down OB3= 13 cm.

We draw the contour of the dart through dots B, B2, B1, B3.
As a result, what should work out (see Fig. 2).

The basic mesh of the front consists of 4 rectangles, see (Figure 3). We start the construction from the line of the middle of the front. On the right side of a sheet of paper draw a straight vertical segment AN, which is equal (Di) .

AN = Product length (Di) = 100cm.

On the segment AN build the first rectangle with sides that are equal to each other AP = GG4 And AG = PG4.

AG = PG4 = AG(from the drawing of the back) = 23 cm.

AP = GG4= (chest width (Shg) + increase) : 2 + 1cm = (33cm + 2cm) : 2 + 1 = 18.5 cm.

Next we build a second rectangle with sides GT = G2T3 And GG2 = TT3.

GT = G2T3 = GT(take from the back drawing) = 19cm.

GG2 = TT3 = (Pog 2 + increase) : 2cm + 1cm = (45cm + 2cm) : 2cm +1cm = 24.5cm.

Third rectangle with sides TB = T1B1 and TT1 = BB1.

Parallel lines TB = T1B1 = TB(measured from the drawing of the back) = 18cm.

Parallel TT1 = BB1 = (Pob (Half-hip circumference) + increase): 2cm + 1cm = (48cm +2cm): 2cm + 1cm = 26cm.

Fourth rectangle with sides BB1= NN1 and BN = B1N1(see figure 3).

Line segment AN in the pattern drawing it will be labeled as the middle front.

Front pattern.

Neck line.

Rectangle with sides AA2 = A1A3 and AA1 = A2A3

AA2 = A1A3 = AA2(from the drawing of the back) = 7.3 cm.

AA1 = A2A3 = AA2(from the drawing of the back) + increase = 7.3 cm + 1 cm = 8.3 cm.

Form an arched line at the front neckline through dots. A1, A2.

On the segment A2A3 down from A2 measure a value with a standard length that is equal to 1.2 cm and put P4(this point is auxiliary): A2A4= 1.2cm.

And from A4 to the left we build an auxiliary horizontal straight line A4P= 5cm.

At the intersection of the arc from A2 with auxiliary horizontal line A4P put an end to it R.

Through dots A2, P we draw up the inclined part of the shoulder line.

The location of the lower corner of the chest dart, the width of the opening and its length.

GG5 = TO = Tsg (distance between the centers of the chest convexity): 2cm = 19cm: 2cm = 9.5cm.

From point G5 build a vertical line down through the waist line TT1(the place of intersection is denoted by point O), until the intersection with the segment BB1.

Draw an arc downwards with a radius of equal measurement to find P1(center of the dart solution) is necessary, from the point Vg(Chest height) = 25 cm. The intersection point of the arc with the vertical line from G5 is designated P1.

PP1= 25 cm.

We draw the right side at the chest dart solution PP1.

Then we find point P2 with two notches.

Let's make the first notch in an arcuate shape with a center of P and a radius of 6 cm, which is obtained by the formula:
PP2 = (Pog 2 - Pog 1) × 2= (45cm - 42 cm) × 2 = 6cm.

We find the second notch in this way. Draw an arc with center at point P1 and a radius equal to the length of the right side of the dart PP1. Place a point at the intersection of two arcs P2.

Р1Р2 = РР1= 25 cm.

We draw the left side of the groove through the points P1, P2.

The slope of the shoulder line after the dart.

PP1 = PP1(measure from the drawing of the back of the dress) + 1 cm.

From P1 to the left we construct an auxiliary horizontal line perpendicular to the segment PG4.

To find point P2, you need to draw an arc with a center at point P2 and a radius of 10 cm. This value is calculated by the formula:
P2P2 = A2P1(we measure from the drawing of the back) - A2P- 1cm = 16cm - 5cm - 1cm = 10cm.

At the intersection of an arc with an auxiliary horizontal line, which is built from a point P1, there is a point P2.
We draw the shoulder line with an inclined straight line connecting the points R2P2.

Construction of the armhole.

To find a point G3, a horizontal segment is required G2G4(measure from the front drawing) divide by 2cm.

G4G3 = G2G4(from the front drawing): 2cm.

From the resulting point G3 We retreat upward a constant amount equal to 1.2 cm.

G4P3= 0.2cm × G4P1= 0.2 × 16.5 cm = 3.3 cm (constant value).

Then to the left we build a segment with a constant value P3P4= 1.2cm.

From point G4 measure up a distance equal to 6.6 cm. We put a mark and designate it with a conventional letter P5.

G4P5= 0.4 × G4P1= 0.4 × 16.5 cm = 6.6 cm.

P5P6= 1 cm (constant value).

We design the armhole with a smooth concave line through the symbols P2, P6, P4, 1.2cm, G2(Figure 4).

Side seam.

The width of the front panel along the waist line is calculated as follows: From point T to the left, measure a distance equal to 23 cm and set T2. This value is calculated using the formula:
TT2= (half-waist circumference + increase): 2 + dart solution + 1cm = (35 +2cm): 2cm + 3.5cm + 1cm = 23cm.

We draw the side seam line with a smooth curved line through points G2, T2, B1, H1.

The opening (width) of the traveling groove.

BB1= tuck solution = 2 cm.

From point ABOUT which is on the waist line TT1 we retreat to the right and left an amount equal to the tuck solution, which was divided in half and received 1 cm.

OB = OB1= tuck opening: 2 = 2cm: 2 = 1cm.

Depth and height (length) of the undercut.

From the bottom corner of the chest dart P1, we retreat down a constant amount equal to 1.5 cm and put a point AT 2.
Р1В2= 1.5 cm.

The depth of the dart is measured from the point ABOUT, which is located on the waist line. We retreat down 8 cm and set AT 3.
OB3= 8 cm.

We draw the contour (sides) of the dart through the points B2, B, B3, B1.

To improve the fit and fit of the sheath dress, we recommend constructing a second (additional) dart on the front panel of the pattern drawing.

Additional undercut. The distance between the center points of the darts.

To the left of the center point ABOUT retreat a distance equal to 5.25 cm, we get O1 from the formula:
OO1 = OT2(measured from the front drawing): 2 = 10.5 cm: 2 = 5.25 cm.

From point O1 We build a vertical line until it intersects with the lines of the waist and hips.

Additional tuck solution.

B6B7 (additional dart) = 1.5 cm (standard size).

From O1 to the right and left we retreat a distance of 0.75 cm. This figure is taken from the expression:
О1В6 = O1V7= additional tuck solution: 2 = 1.5cm: 2 = 0.75cm.

Depth and height of additional dart

Up from a point O1 retreat the standard value equal to 11 cm and mark it with point B4.
О1В4= 11cm.

And from O1 we retreat down 7.5 cm and set AT 5.
О1В5= 7.5 cm.

The sides of the darts pass through B4, B7, B5, B6.

As a result, what should work out (see Figure 4).

Sheath dress, often sewn with long sleeves. Read how to make a pattern for such a sleeve on the page.

A sheath dress is the perfect outfit for modern women. It has many faces - sewn from expensive black wool, such a dress can be evening, sewn from light linen - can be summer, sewn from fabrics of pastel colors - can become romantic, sewn from fabrics in gray colors - can be a strict office dress.

The dress shown in the photo is ideal for the office. This product has one general rule- the pattern is tailored to the figure, knee-length or slightly higher, dress models can be sleeveless or with sleeves, as you like.

The shape of the reliefs and darts of a sheath dress, as well as the neckline, can also be of different shapes, depending on the model of the dress.

This modest, elegant dress is a godsend for office work. You can model the pattern yourself, for free, by building and.

Sheath dress pattern

Fig.1. Pattern for the front of a sheath dress

Fig.2. Dress front modeling

Fig.3. Sheath dress back pattern

Fig.4. Sheath dress pattern - sleeve modeling

Pattern modeling

Create a base pattern according to your own measurements.

Draw modeling lines on the front of the pattern as shown in Fig. 1.

Rice. 2 — finished pattern for cutting.

Draw modeling lines on the back pattern as shown in Fig. 3.
The sleeve of the dress should be shortened as shown in Fig. 4.

How to sew a sheath dress

On the front, cover the darts and stitch them. Iron to the middle front of the model.

On the back, sweep the darts, stitch, and iron to the middle of the back. Baste and stitch the side seams of the dress.

Baste and stitch the sleeve seams. Sew the sleeves of the dress into the armhole. Cut out the facing for the neckline of the dress, 3 cm wide, exactly along the front and back neckline.

Reinforce the facing with thermal fabric. Place the sheath dress face to face over the neckline. Sweep, grind. Turn the facing to the wrong side, sweep clean, and iron.

Hem the sleeves. Hem the bottom of the dress.

• — how to create the perfect pattern?

History of the sheath dress

Sheath dress first appeared in women's wardrobe almost a century ago, and today remains relevant, being the same basis of the wardrobe as a real example of the classics - small black dress. This dress was especially popular in the thirties and sixties - Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Edith Piaf were devoted fans of such dresses. Beneficially emphasizing all the advantages of the female figure, it is deservedly loved by modern designers, while at the same time not possessing even a drop of vulgarity.

Like the little black dress, a sheath dress can be extremely practical - it can be worn to a formal event, a business meeting or a party. It can always be distinguished by the way it hugs the figure. The classic model is a narrow, figure-flattering dress without sleeves or collar, with a rounded neckline. The length of the classic model is somewhere between the length of a short cocktail dress and a long one. evening dress- it ends at the knee or in the middle of the calf. Also, dress models come with or without straps. A distinctive feature of the model is the accentuation of the waist due to a special cut, the absence of a horizontal seam at the waist. Thanks to the emphasized waist, the dress can transform your figure, bringing it closer to the classic hourglass shape. Plus, a flattering length creates the illusion of long legs almost as well as high-waisted pants making your legs look longer. A sheath dress looks especially flattering when paired with high-heeled shoes.

What to wear with a sheath dress

Elegant, feminine and at the same time practical, so much so that you can wear it anywhere. It can equally well complement both a summer and winter wardrobe. IN business wardrobe can be a feminine alternative to a classic business suit. The lack of sleeves can be hidden with a stylish cardigan or fitted blazer. As an evening or cocktail outfit, the sheath looks best in combination with evening shoes or thin-heeled sandals and eye-catching accessories or jewelry, giving the necessary zest to a simple yet infinitely elegant dress. A string of pearls will transform a modest black dress into a reminder of the timeless elegance of Audrey Hepburn's character in the legendary film Breakfast at Tiffany's. A snow-white dress, seductively hugging the figure, will allow you to create the image of a sort of Hollywood diva from the retro era of the American “Dream Factory” - especially if you add a stylish headdress and an original bracelet to the ensemble.

The minimalist style of the sheath dress makes it an ideal basis for accessories - an elegant outfit can be complemented with a large, massive necklace or bracelet, a classic string of pearls, an original brooch, or vintage-style jewelry. In addition, thanks to the laconic style, the color of the dress can be absolutely any - black turns it into a traditional Cocktail Dress, and bright colors or prints make it a real wardrobe staple that does not require any additions in the form of eye-catching accessories.

Sheath dress on world catwalks

Regularly, the sheath dress becomes the basis of many collections of the largest fashion brands, being one of the most popular types of cocktail and evening wear. Fashion brand Elie Saab, for example, based almost its entire collection on various variations: classic black, sensual red, bright turquoise. And in combination with exquisite hats they were included in the spring-summer 2010 collection of Donna Karan, and in new collection Gucci appeared dresses with summer-like bright abstract prints. One of the recognized masters elegant dresses became designer Roland Mouret - his stylish, very feminine, discreetly elegant sheath dresses have long been added to the wardrobes of numerous Hollywood stars and have become a source of inspiration for Victoria Beckham, which also based its debut collection on a modern interpretation of the classic case.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But wasn't very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No confusing formulas
• No confusing calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

DARTS ON THE BACK – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

• We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
• We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it to you when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

Half girths (we divide girth measurements in half and get half girths):

Rice. 1

Ssh - half neck circumference
Сг1 - half chest circumference first
Сr2 - half chest circumference second
Сг3 - half chest circumference third
St - half waist circumference
Sat - half hip circumference

Lengths:

Rice. 2

Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Lts - back length to waist
Accident - shelf length to waist

Rice. 3

Widths:

Shp - shoulder width
Shg - chest width
Shs - back width

Rice. 4

Heights:

Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest

Rice. 5

Vpks - shoulder height oblique back

Rice. 6

Vg - chest height

We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1−4. When taking measurements of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the measuring tape should be positioned strictly horizontally at the narrowest/widest point (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, you do not need to tighten the tape, as this may lead to narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the designed line of the shoulder seam.

Increases in looseness of fit

The increases depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. For example, we will take average values. We also need to take into account that we use increments to build half of the product.

For an example of how to build a dress, we will take size 48 (this is size 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.

Measurements:

Sh = 18.5 cm
Сг1 =45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
Shs = 18.3 cm
Vpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm

Increases:

Pg = 6.0 cm
Fri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm

Calculation for creating a mesh:

Mesh width (A0a1) = Cr3+Pg=48.0+6.0= 54.0 cm
Back width (A0a) = Shs+Pshs=18.3+0.8=19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2)= Шг+(Сг2-Сг1)+Пшп=17.3+(50.4−45.9)+0.3=22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2)= Shpr=Shset-(Shsp+Shpol)= 54.0-(19.1+22.1)=12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5*Pdts =21.5+2.0+0.5*0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts+Pdts = 42.9+0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
Hip line position (A0B) = Dts/2−2 = 42.9/2−2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A"H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be set aside after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will set aside the length of the product from point A1.

Meshing

Step 1

Rice. 7

The first construction point is point A0 and from it we set the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.

To the right of point A0 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest and get point a.

To the left of point a1 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
Segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.

Down from point A0 we set aside the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).

From point A0 downwards we plot the position of the chest line on line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on segment A0G, the position of the waist line is plotted and we obtain point T.
And we postpone the position of the hip line from point T on the segment A0G and get point B.

From point a1 down we also set off the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.

From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2 we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important stage of creating a mesh should look like shown in Fig. 7.

Drawing the backrest

Step 2

Rice. 8

From point A0 we put it to the left on a line of 0.5 cm - this is the outlet of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".

From point A0" down along the line A0H we plot the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4*Dts = 0.4*42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. We connect point Y to point A0" with a time line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back A0"A = A2A1 = 7.2/3 = 2.4 down from point A0" on the line A0"U. We complete the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a pattern curve.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 8.

Step 3

Rice. 9

From point T to the left on the waist line TT3 we set aside a bend along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.

To construct the middle seam of the back, we put a bend from point H to the right equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and get point H1. We draw the middle back seam through points A-U-T1-H1.

From the neck of the back, along the middle seam, we put the length of the back down and get point H (the correct length).

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 9.

Step 4

Rice. 10

We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck opening = 13.3+2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the dart opening is equal to 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk+ Pvpk, where Ppvk = Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case = 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 = 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1 we place point P1.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 10.

Step 5

Rice. eleven

Construction shoulder dart Let's start by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, let's take the value 4.0 cm.

When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the tuck opening = 2.0 cm. We put point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Next, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to increase the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

We connect the sides of the darts with the neck points A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular; we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6

Rice. 12

We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build point P3 = 18.9/3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. We set point P3 from point G1 from the chest line to segment G1a1.

From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with length = Шр*0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8*0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

Auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the armhole width, i.e. Шр/2 = 12.8/2 = 6.4 cm.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7

Rice. 13

The back armhole line is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 13.

Building a drawing of a shelf

Step 8

Fig.14

To construct the chest center point, the distance G3G4/2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from point G3 to the right and we get point G6.

For products of the dress group, we draw up a descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we put 0.5 cm down from point T3 and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.

To construct the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh/3 + Pshgor = 18.5/3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, we move from point A3 to the left horizontally and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3" from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 14.

Step 9

Fig.15

The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Br = 27.5 cm and we obtain point G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the dart opening from point A4, we find point A9.

We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get a chest dart for the front.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 15.

Step 10

Rice. 16

To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. To do this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Next, this distance G4P4/3 = 6.0 cm and we put this distance from point G4 up and get point P6.

Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.

We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 16.

Step 11

Fig.17

To construct the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.

From corner G4 to construct the armhole we draw a bisector Шр*0.2 = 12.8*0.2 = 2.6 cm.

Through points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 17.

Construction of lateral lines

Step 12

Rice. 18

We will start constructing the side lines along the chest line from point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From point G4 downwards we draw a vertical line, this is the center line of the side seam.

At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

To design the side seam, take 0.4*R-r outt waist = 0.4*11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete dart solution in the side seam. To do this, 4.6/2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.

Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, in order postpone the expansion along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.

In this example of construction, we will leave the dress straight silhouette below, so along the bottom line along the side seam we set aside the same values ​​as along the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.

Through points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the front and back.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 18.

Step 13

Rice. 19

To construct a dart along the back waist line, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21/2 = 21.8/2 = 10.9 cm and get point T4.

Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r out waist - R-r out waist side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8/2 =1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is 15.0 cm - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 19.

Step 14

Rice. 20

To construct a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf; to do this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the hip line - we get point T5.

Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the line waist size vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r vytal sp = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.½ = 1.55 and set it aside from point T5 and we get points T51 and T52.

The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 20.

Step 15

Rice. 21

To build relief lines, it is necessary to transfer part of the chest dart of the front. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the back dart = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.

We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the transfer radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.

Now from point A4 we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we obtain point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get a shoulder line to the shelf relief line and a section of the shelf relief.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16

Rice. 22

To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.

We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 22.

Rice. 23

The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look as shown in Fig. 23.

Step 17

Rice. 24

Next, you need to transfer the main parts of the shelf, the side of the front, the back and the side of the back onto tracing paper and add seam allowances.

This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 24.

If these are your first steps in design, then the design needs to be checked, that is, sew the dress from mock-up fabric and try it on to be sure that there are no errors in calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the facings of the neckline and armholes of the back and front. And also, if desired, decorative elements- yokes, flounces, edgings, etc.

Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva

Almost every girl loves to wear dresses, because they are a very versatile item that emphasizes femininity and elegance. There are a lot of dress models in the 21st century, but the sheath dress is considered one of the most popular in the fashion world. If you are wondering how to sew such a dress from knitwear with your own hands, then you must first learn how to make a sheath dress correctly.

Who is it suitable for?

“Case” is perfect for girls with any figure. It would seem that such a classic model is intended only for slender women, but there are also suitable options for overweight ladies. If the dress is sewn correctly, then even on ladies with large figures it will fit perfectly, emphasizing all the advantages of the figure. In addition, if you choose accessories, then tenderness and femininity will be at the highest level.

“Case” is also suitable for social parties, special occasions, business meetings, trips to the theater and dates. This is because this model has a lot of advantages. Since the fabric is selected exclusively natural, the dress will look expensive and elegant on any representative of the fair sex.

Thanks to the basic pattern, you can make a dress pattern in both size 48 with sleeves and size 42. The main thing is to transfer the measurements correctly.

First you need to do step by step construction sheath dress patterns. Doing this with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears if you have the right diagram.

Using this pattern, you can cut out not only the standard version, but also add a neckline with sleeves.

Sheath dress pattern

It’s very easy to make a pattern with your own hands. First you need to find the right tools:

Now you will need measurements for construction.

Here you can see some explanations. They mean half-girths:

• Sat - hips.
• Ssh - neck.
• St - waist.
• Сг1 - the first half-circumference of the chest.
• Сr2 - second half chest circumference.
• Cg3 - third half chest circumference.

Now we measure the length:

There are also length notations here:

• DTP - the length of the shelf to the waist.
• Dts - back to waist.
• Di - products.
• DP - shoulder.

Width designations:

• Shs - backs.
• Shg - breasts.
• Shp - shoulder.

Then we measure the heights:

Height designations:

• Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest.
• Vpks - shoulder height oblique back.
• Vg - chest height.

Sewing instructions

For sewing you will need natural fabric. It is best to choose thick cotton, as well as linen or jacquard fabric. Such materials do not shrink after several washes, and the dress always looks like new. In addition, after some time, a dress made from such fabrics will stretch.

So, when all the measurements have been taken, you need to put the back side on the front and fasten them with pins. Now you need to mark the allowances and outline them with chalk. Next you need to cut out the cut details.

To properly cut and sew your future product, you can use step-by-step instructions: