How to sew a zipper into a skirt: basic rules. How to sew a simple zipper into a skirt How to insert a zipper into a sun skirt

A hidden zipper is indispensable when you need a fastener that is invisible from the front side for a dress, skirt, or bag. It is not so easy to sew it in correctly without deforming the product. What do you need to know to sew a hidden zipper?

Features of a hidden zipper

The peculiarity of a hidden zipper is that it is hidden in the seam of the product, and only the slider remains on the surface. In the regular one it is located on the side of the teeth, in the secret one - on the reverse side. But don’t get confused, some regular zippers also have teeth hidden under the braid. You can distinguish it this way: in a hidden zipper, when open, the teeth are easy to bend, in other types - not.

How to choose the right hidden zipper? Pay attention to the width, type and density of the base material. The lighter the fabric of the product, the thinner the zipper is chosen. The length should be 2-3 cm longer than the planned length of the fastener.

Iron the zipper before working. If it is on a cotton ribbon, this is done with steam. The fact is that the zipper tape can stretch or shrink in finished product will wrinkle the fabric.

“Hidden” foot for stitching

To sew a hidden zipper, a special foot is used, which allows you to sew it as close to the teeth as possible. It is not always included with the sewing machine, but is sold in specialized stores. It differs from the usual one in the shape of the sole: on the surface of the product there are grooves or grooves for the zipper spiral.

To choose the right presser foot, take with you to the store any one that is suitable for your sewing machine. Paws different models have design features:

• on the “leg”;
• with removable sole;
• with screw fastening.

They can also be metal or plastic. Metal models will last longer. Plastic is a less durable material. Over time, such a foot is deformed by the needle or the teeth of the machine bar, and its sliding deteriorates. But if the foot is needed for one-time work, then a plastic product will do.

What do you need for work?

To sew a zipper you will need:

• zipper;
• chalk
• ruler;
• tailor's pins;
• needle and thread;
• "secret" foot.

Before starting work, check the tension of the upper and lower threads in the machine. If it is strong, then loosen it, otherwise after stitching the zipper will bristle.

Do not use needles and threads that are too thick for stitching.

Non-woven strips

It is not difficult to sew a zipper so as not to stretch the fabric. It is necessary to glue the seam allowances in the place where the zipper is inserted using non-woven strips. For this purpose are intended:

• formband - oblique non-woven tape with a central stitch, which is used on oblique cuts or for knitwear and is glued so that the central line coincides with the seam markings;
• contentband - a non-woven adhesive strip, cut in a straight line, which is glued beyond the seam markings by 1 mm.

If there is no formband or contenband, strips are cut from non-woven fabric: for oblique cuts and knitwear on the bias, for straight ones - in a straight line.

How to properly sew a hidden zipper

To sew in a hidden zipper, a series of sequential steps are performed.

The first stage is preparation

1. Measure from the inside 1.5 cm from the cut of the fabric and draw a chalk line on both sides.
2. Glue strips of non-woven fabric - formband or contenband - to the seam allowances at the stitching site. If the fabric is rough and dense, you can do without interlining.
3. Baste the seam along the markings.
4. Seal the edges with an overlocker or by hand.
5. Iron the seam. In this case, first iron the seam on one side, and then iron it on opposite sides.

Stage two - basting

1. Place the closed zipper in the center to the stitching site, make chalk marks on the seam allowances and the zipper tape symmetrically on both sides in two or three places. You will need them to sew the zipper more accurately. The top of the fastener should line up with the top seam mark for the waistband for the skirt or neckline if it's a dress.
2. Insert pins along the marks across the fastener and fasten the zipper with the seam allowances under the teeth.
3. Baste the zipper over the seam allowances, piercing only one layer of fabric.
4. Remove the pins, remove the seam basting, and open the zipper.

The third stage - stitching

1. Sew the zipper on the machine using a special foot until it rests on the fastener. If there is no special foot, use a regular one. Then you need to manually bend the zipper spiral and make sure that the seam goes as close to the spiral as possible without damaging it. If you have little experience, then it is better to attach both sides from above to prevent distortion.
2. Close the zipper and make sure everything is done correctly.
3. Continue the side seam so that the bottom bartack is not visible. It should be 0.5-0.7 cm below the end of the seam.
4. Remove basting.

How to sew in a hidden zipper - video

Features of sewing in a hidden zipper

Depending on the specific product, fabric, cut and place of stitching, there are some nuances. Below are different options for sewing in a zipper.

Bag, pillowcase

The easiest way to sew a zipper into a bag or pillowcase is to sew a zipper to the cut but not sewn parts, and then assemble the product. The zipper should be 5 cm longer than the fastener. Instead of basting, a glue stick for fabrics is also used.

1. We apply the markings to the front side of the product.
2. Coat the allowance with glue.
3. Place the unzipped zipper with the slider down, aligning the spiral with the marking line and press with a hot iron.

To avoid staining the ironing surface, place paper under the part. After this, all that remains is to sew the zipper on the machine and assemble the product.

Seamless circle skirt

1. The first step is to mark where you will sew the zipper.
2. Carefully cut the fabric to the length of the fastener, adding 5-7 cm.
3. We duplicate (glue) the sections with a suitable non-woven tape and overlay the sections.
4. We sew in the zipper.
5. We close the rest of the incision with a suture.

Dress

If the clasp on a dress starts below the neckline or armhole, the seam is sewn down in advance before the clasp begins to be released. We carefully combine the details along the waistline, especially in cut-off dresses.

Important! If the fabric is cut on the bias or the cut is curved, duplicate the allowances with non-woven tape. We do the same with thin and knitted (stretchy) fabrics.

How to sew a zipper into the side seam of a dress cut at the waist - video

Sewing a hidden zipper into any product is not so difficult if you know some tricks and secrets. Guided by the described recommendations, everyone can do this without difficulty.

Elizaveta Rumyantseva

Nothing is impossible for diligence and art.

Content

Beginner sewing needlewomen are sure that sewing on a hidden fastener is problematic. It should not be visible in the finished product, and this is important when the item combines beautiful fabric and an original style. After looking at the accessory in person, women wonder how to sew a hidden zipper as neatly as possible.

What is required for work

The hidden clasp differs from the usual one in its design. On the front side of the finished product, only the runner is visible, and the teeth are on the back. Everything looks beautiful and neat because the edges of the material are tightly pressed together. How to properly sew a hidden zipper and what is needed for such work?

If this is your first time doing this, you will need attention and patience. After the first lesson, next time you will do everything quickly. First you need to buy a lock suitable color. The required length is 20 centimeters. Please note that the teeth on the reverse side should bend, forming a groove for stitching. To work you will need:

• threads in the color of the material;
• needle;
• pins to pin the fastener before basting;
• sewing machine;
• special foot;
• padding to strengthen the edge - doublerin or non-woven fabric.

How to use dublerin

Stores offer a huge selection of materials for sewing. There are heavy, dense fabrics, knitted fabric and weightless silk. Each type requires special techniques, its own approach to sewing. There will be no problems if you decide to sew a hidden lock into a product made of thick fabric. Another thing is stretchy, loose materials. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt in this case? A special fabric - dublerin - will help you.

This is a strip of very thin lining material with a layer of glue applied to it, which looks like small grains on one side. Before sewing on the lock, double stitching is basted along the line along which it will be attached. The lining is installed with the adhesive side to the fabric and secured with a hot iron. Edges reinforced in this way will not stretch. If the fabric is glued well, everything will be sewn neatly.

Which foot is needed for a hidden zipper?

Worried about how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? Just buy a special foot. Modern machines include a device that is suitable for ordinary locks; if you try, you can sew in a hidden one. It is more convenient to do this with a special foot. It has grooves at the base into which the teeth fit, opening a place for grinding. The needle is stuck close to them - so that after sewing the stitching is not visible. You can buy a metal or plastic foot, but the first one will last longer.

How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt

There are many ways to sew in a hidden lock. Experienced craftswomen do this without basting, right away. Some people only use pinning, gradually removing them as they sew, so as not to break the sewing machine needle. It is better for novice needlewomen to perform the operations sequentially, chopping and basting the lock. Over time, you will choose the appropriate technology for yourself to sew in a hidden fastener; you will do it easily and simply.

Where the lock will be sewn is up to you. This can be a side or middle seam at the back - it doesn’t matter for the execution technique. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? According to technology, it is better to do this:

• fold the fabric in half where the fastener is stitched;
• make an allowance of 1.5 cm from the edge and draw a seam line;
• sweep the product along this marking;
• overcast each edge separately;
• iron the seam according to the basting;
• straighten it and iron it;
• on the wrong side of the product, attach the lock with the teeth down so that they align with the middle of the seam;
• The slider should align with the hem line of the top edge of the skirt.

Steps for sewing a hidden lock:

• pull the slider to the front side;
• pin the lock across with pins, under the teeth;
• baste to one layer of hem, making a seam in the middle;
• remove pins;
• fully open the clasp;
• stitch one side using a special foot, which will bend the edge with the teeth;
• repeat the operation on the other side, if the fabric is slippery - satin or silk - it is necessary to stitch from above each time;
• make a fastening seam on the wrong side about 1 cm at the bottom of the lock;
• sew the back seam to the end;
• make a facing for the top of the skirt;
• do the processing and hem the hem.

Features of knitted products

There are nuances on how to sew a hidden zipper into a knitted skirt quickly and without problems. The technology itself remains unchanged, but preparatory work needs to be done:

• buy a special needle for knitwear - it has a rounded end;
• select the step length on a separate piece of fabric;
• check line;
• glue the place where the lock is stitched with a non-woven or dublin gasket;
• To properly pull the fabric when sewing, place a strip of paper under it.

And skirts. It can serve not only for its intended purpose, but also simply as a... Zippers are sewn along the middle line of the back, or front, into the side seam, pockets, codpiece, and so on. Vertically, horizontally, obliquely, openly and hidden (secret) way. Colors can be selected to match the fabric or contrast. Hidden zippers, as a rule, are precisely selected by color and shade.

In contact with

Threads for stitching, if there is no need to emphasize the presence of a fastener, are also chosen exactly to match the fabric. The number of threads is the same as required for sewing this fabric; in the case of finishing stitches, the thread is taken thicker.

Materials and tools

To work you will need the following devices and fittings:

• threads;
• sewing needle;
• safety pins for pinning and basting;
• sewing machine;
• special foot;
• gasket to strengthen the edge (non-woven fabric or).

There is now a wide selection of materials in stores. If the lock is sewn into products made of dense fabric, then there will be no problems, but when installing a hidden lock on stretchy knitted material or very thin fabric, you will need doublerin. This is a strip of lining material that has a very thin thickness, and a thin adhesive layer is applied to it.

Before installing the zipper along the line where the stitching is supposed to be done, dublerin is basted. This lining is applied with the adhesive side to the material, then secured with a preheated iron. This procedure prevents the edges of the fabric from being pulled out. With good gluing, the zipper will be sewn well and will look neat.

How to sew a hidden zipper to a skirt

To begin with, if you have never done this operation before, then it is better to try sewing a lock on some unnecessary product or a separate fragment to gain some experience. Once you are convinced that you can do this, you can begin working with the main product.

Advice for seamstresses who do not have sufficient experience: it is easiest to sew the fastener into the back seam of the product, since if the fastener is sewn incorrectly on the side, the fabric may become skewed and symmetry will be lost. . It won't be very noticeable on the back seam., since it is more symmetrical, it is much easier to sew the necessary lock there than in the side one.

Procedure:

It is necessary to hide the presence of the fastener as much as possible, so sewing it on unnoticeably and carefully is a very important procedure. At the same time, the lightning should move freely, do not get stuck or break from stitching too close. Its length varies depending on the size and intended model.

An incorrectly sewn zipper can deform the product. In addition, if the fabric is too thin (also very elastic and thin knitwear), then the end of the fastener may stick out angularly, in this case it is preferable to sew the fastener along the middle line of the back. Therefore, learn to sharpen locks correctly.

Various options

The procedure for sewing a fastener to a skirt with a belt

If the skirt has hooks or buttons, then the beginning of the zipper should be located under the belt. If the belt does not have any, then the zipper is sewn in from the very top line. In this case, the fastener is stitched from top to bottom. With this approach, it will not deform the fabric, and it will be much more convenient to install it.

After the lock has been attached, the top edge must be disguised under the belt. To do this, you can tuck the edges of the lock and stitch it. Sometimes pieces of fabric are placed over the fastener. This is done so that the zipper does not create unpleasant moments in the form of scratching the back.

When placing a side hidden fastener there are some nuances. There is symmetry in the back seam so it stretches evenly on both ends. If the castle is in side seam and sewn carelessly, the skirt will be skewed and the fabric will gather in waves. These shortcomings will spoil the picture. Therefore, the zipper is the final element of the skirt. When installing it, you need to be careful. It should be maximum.

How to sew a lock into a skirt without a belt

If the product does not have a belt, then the choice of fastener must be made in such a way that there are no incidents in the form of unfastening, that is, the zipper must be tight. The grinding process will be performed as follows:

1. First you need to sew on the zipper.
2. Then fold the top edge of the skirt.
3. Hem the canvas using a machine, disguising it under the fabric.
4. The teeth should be flush with the edge of your skirt.

It is very easy to sew a clasp into a seamless skirt. In this case, the following condition must be met: on the lower part of the zipper, in the place where it ends, the seam must be carefully applied.

There are ways to install locks without application sewing machine, that is, manually.

How to sew into a pleated skirt

Sewing a pleated skirt requires more experience and skill. Sewing a fastener into a skirt fold is a painstaking process, so you should be patient. Only a seamstress who is quite familiar with sewing can do this carefully, without a hitch.

When cutting out products, it is necessary to leave a cut for the fastener in the seam, the length of which should be equal to the length of the lock with an allowance of two centimeters.

1. First of all, you need to smooth out the seam allowances.
2. Then you need to make a fold of one centimeter.
3. At the next stage, remove this fold and bend it again, but only to a different distance equal to 1.3 centimeters.
4. Then you need to pin the zipper to the skirt behind the folded fabric: where the fabric lies in 1 layer. The cloves should be positioned close to the fabric, and the cloves should be 2 centimeters away from the top of the product.
5. Next, you need to mark a seam along the zipper and stitch it between this seam and the teeth. The second side should be pinned 1 centimeter from the fold of the fabric.
6. And finally, baste the fastener, then stitch it so that the seam is close to the teeth (at a distance of two or three millimeters).
7. Remove excess threads and stitch across the seam to secure the hidden fastener at the bottom.

Try sewing such a zipper on an old product; if you can’t do it the first time, practice and you will succeed.

How to sew a metal zipper into a skirt

Zippers made of metal, are used not only to perform the function of a fastener, but also to add additional decor to products. In the latter case, zippers are sometimes sewn into the skirt, and sometimes placed on top. The color of the fastener can be contrasting to the main color of the fabric or matched to it. Beginner dressmakers are advised to choose a zipper color in the same shade as the skirt and sew it in from the inside out.

Before installation, you must first baste the fastener onto the product, as when working with a regular plastic zipper. The main condition: the teeth must be visible from the face, so you need to step back about five millimeters from the edge of the fabric.

Nuances when working with knitwear

When working with knitwear The fastener installation technology is the same, but requires a little preparatory work:

• purchasing a special needle for sewing knitwear with a rounded end;
• selection of step length on a small piece of fabric;
• stitch check;
• gluing with non-woven or dublerin padding.

For example, if it is a rare loose bouclé, voluminous lace, fabric with woven fibers, the ends of which stick out above the surface of the fabric. All this will be secured by a hidden zipper, because it is sewn close to the teeth.

In these cases, we sew in a regular zipper in an open or closed way. I will do a series of master classes about in different ways sewing in a simple zipper.

Today we will sew a zipper into the skirt under the belt. This method is called “Zipper in the fold”. I still have a silk skirt from the 90s that was shown on the catwalk at the Burda trading house on Pushechnaya. This is how they used to sew zippers into all products, because hidden zippers We haven't had one yet. Please note that the zipper on this skirt is longer than usual due to the large difference between the waist and hips. Otherwise you can't wear a skirt.

I show how to sew in a zipper on a small sample and on a smooth fabric so that the stitching is visible.

You will need:

- textile
- zipper 18−22 cm long. Remember, the greater the difference between your waist and hips, the longer the zipper.
- tailor's pins
- needle and thread for sewing
- tailor's scissors
- Kantenband strip - 0.5 m

Step 1. Choosing the right zipper

It can be either plastic or metal, it will not be visible, but the teeth of the metal zipper in this case should be small and narrow!

Firstly, a regular zipper has teeth on the same side as the zipper, unlike a hidden one.

Secondly, the zipper must have a stopper that fixes the zipper in one place and prevents the zipper from spontaneously opening in the sock. This is especially true for tight pencil skirts.

Thirdly, the zipper should not be wide!

The stopper is the triangles on the bottom of the lock; they stand up when the lock is lowered into the zipper links and fix it in place.

Step 2

Iron the zipper from the bottom side, not along the teeth! Synthetic - dry iron, cotton - with steam. All zippers shrink slightly when ironed. Do not neglect this operation, otherwise after ironing the finished sewn-in zipper on the fabric, especially shiny and smooth fabric, ripples may appear along the zipper or the zipper may bend in an arc.

Step 3

To sew a zipper into a fold, allowances must be at least 2 cm! It is important.

Loose or stretchable fabrics need to be strengthened. To do this, glue the zipper allowances along the seam markings with strips of cantenband or any thin adhesive. For thick and non-stretchy fabrics, you can skip this step.

Step 4

Mark the zipper on the seam strictly under the metal stopper, otherwise it may get caught under the needle.

Baste the seam under the zipper.

After fitting, machine stitch the seam below the zipper, overcast the seam allowances separately.

Step 5

Iron the seam allowances below the zipper smoothly, and iron the left seam allowance under the zipper with a slight overlap to the right seam - up to 1 mm.

It is very important!

This influx will cover the stitching line of the zipper; it will be invisible in the finished product.

Step 6

Remove the basting in the seam; the photo shows that on the front side the left edge of the cut slightly overlaps the right.

Bend down the left edge of the slit from the front side of the skirt, and place a zipper under the right edge of the slit. The fold of the fabric should fit closely to the teeth of the zipper. Baste the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the edge of the cut.

Step 7

Place the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far left of the foot.

Stitch the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the fold with tacks at the beginning and end of the seam. The zipper does not need to be opened; the lock does not bother us.

This is what should happen.

Step 8

Cover the zipper with the left edge of the cut so that it overlaps the stitching by 1 mm. Pin the left edge over the stitching.

Step 9

From the inside of the skirt, baste the second half of the zipper close to the zipper; below, under the metal stopper, make a cross stitch so that when stitching from the face it does not fall on it.

Step 10

On the front side, mark an even line of stitching along the basting line.

Move the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far right of the zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper! Otherwise, the lock will prevent us from making an even stitch.
Sew along the markings to approximately the middle of the zipper.

Lower the machine needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot and carefully close the zipper!

Continue stitching with the zipper closed exactly according to the markings. At the end of the zipper, make a transverse fastener either at a right angle or obliquely, as you like.

This is what we got. The zipper is hidden in the fold, the zipper is not visible.

View of the zipper open and from the inside out. On the inside there is a cross stitch below the metal zipper stop.

With this zipper treatment, the top of the skirt is treated with a belt.
Other ways to sew a zipper into a product follow the links:

with facing

Svetlana Khatskevich

Svetlana graduated from a university with a degree in Sewing Technological Engineer. She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior teacher at the AcademyBurda." We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love of sewing.

Sewing is creative, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!

It is always better to start sewing from the very beginning. simple project. A circle skirt is exactly the option that can be recommended to beginners. It suits any figure and can be made from almost any fabric. Calculations for the pattern are made based on just a few measurements. Even a novice craftswoman can sew a beautiful and fashion item with your own hands.

There are 4 types of sun skirts:

• full sun ( regular)
• ¾ ( three quarters sun)
• half sun ( or 1/2)
• ¼ ( quarter)

This picture will help you figure it out.

Depending on the length, skirts can be divided into three groups: mini, midi, maxi.

For average height (about 170 cm):

• Mini – from 35 cm to 40 cm
• Midi – from 66 cm to 71 cm
• Maxi – from 96 cm to 102 cm

In my step by step instructions will be considered by sewing a regular sun skirt ( full sun) mini size ( or midi if for a girl).

Circle Skirt Pattern

To create a pattern for such a skirt you will need only two measurements: waist circumference and length of the product. In fact, you need to cut out a circle of fabric, in which there will be another circle - a belt. The main task is to correctly calculate their radii. The pattern (more precisely, half of it) will be built on paper folded in half.

Measure your waist circumference and add at least 1.5 cm allowance for a loose fit. Often such an allowance is made already during the taking of measurements, and the waist circumference is recorded with it. This way we get the size FROM(waist circumference).

Next, we recall the geometry course and make the necessary calculations. The circumference of a circle is equal to the product of the number π and two radii ( c=2R x 3.14). Therefore, to calculate the radius of a circle, it is necessary to make the following calculations: divide the circumference (waist circumference) by 2 π (2×3.14=6.28), i.e.:

We set aside segments AA1 and AA2 equal to the calculated radius.

We construct an angle of 90 degrees, the vertex of this angle is point A. It is necessary to plot a segment on the sides of the angle equal to the radius of the circle (belt).

We use a ruler as a compass (if you doubt your accuracy, take a real one) and draw a dotted line of a circle with the same radius on the pattern canvas.

The next measure is length of the skirt itself (DU). We set aside segments A1H1 and A2H2 on the sides of the corner. Then we build a new circle. It is better to set its radius from point A (after all, inaccuracies in constructing the first circle will also be reflected on the lower edge). The radius of this circle will be equal to the sum of the segments AA1 and A1H1.

Your constructions provided half of the front pattern. We cut it out, getting a pattern for half of the skirt by folding the paper. You can mark the allowances for the top and bottom edges in advance, or apply them to the fabric when cutting.

At this stage, it is very useful to attach a paper pattern to the figure and correct possible shortcomings (and a novice master should practice by cutting out the entire skirt on paper).

Additionally, we cut out a rectangle that will become a belt. Its length will be equal to the waist circumference + seam allowances, and the width should be twice as large as desired + seam allowances.

Open the Circle Skirts

Fold the fabric in half across the warp threads. You should cut by placing the pattern with a diameter on the fold line and securing it with pins. If you did not make hem and waist seam allowances on the pattern, you can apply them directly to the fabric, setting aside the required distance from the paper.

The length of the allowances will depend on the type of seam chosen for processing. It’s better to make the allowances a little larger so that you can adjust the final details if the measurements are inaccurate.

Now you should cut out the skirt, grabbing all the fabric with scissors. As a result, you will get the required circle. We cut it along the fold line of the fabric on one side: the zipper will be sewn in at this point.

The next stage of creating a pattern is trying it on. A mannequin will help you a lot. Place the future skirt on it and let it hang. Since the skirt is cut on the bias, the warp and weft threads of the fabric may be slightly deformed.

The skirt should hang down

Once the skirt has dropped, if necessary, trim the hemline of the skirt with sharp scissors, applying a paper pattern to it.

Sewing a circle skirt

It’s better to start work by sewing a belt.

Connect the waistband and lining piece and fold the seam allowances from the two long sides of the waistband to the wrong side, securing the folds with an iron. Fold the waistband lengthwise, right side inward, and secure the fold with pins.

Machine stitch the edges on both sides and then turn the waistband right side out.

Hem the bottom of the skirt using a stitch that matches your fabric. You can, for example, process the edge of a skirt using an overlocker or fold the fabric twice.