Presentation on the topic Vologda lace. Russian lace, history of development, main types and technologies. Who makes your patterns? Who comes up with them?

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Listen to an amazing story, not a fairy tale, but a true story. Tsar Peter often traveled to overseas countries. He loved to see with his own eyes how and what was happening in the world. I was wondering where I could learn something good. One day he comes to the Azure Sea. The overseas king meets him, takes him to the palace, shows him all sorts of wonders.

- I feel sorry for you, Tsar Peter,” he says. – You live among dark people. They don’t know anything, they can’t do anything. Look at the kind of craftswomen there are in my kingdom. - He shows a lace tablecloth.

Tsar Peter looked at the tablecloth and laughed:

- Where in your country have you seen birch trees and daisies? This is Russian lace, from my country.

This cannot be true! - cried the king. I began to examine the tablecloth with a magnifying glass. Look, don't look - a birch will remain a birch. The king got angry and ordered the merchants to be called to him. They threw themselves at the king’s feet and confessed everything:

Guilty, your royal majesty! Oh, our fault! They did not order execution, they ordered mercy. This is not the work of our craftswomen, it was bought from Russian lacemakers - from the seven Catherines. No one weaves lace better than them, you won’t find a richer pattern anywhere...

What are the other seven Catherines? Are you trying to deceive me again? - The overseas king was angry. At this point Peter had to stand up for the merchants. - There are such lacemakers in my kingdom. I've heard about them, although I've never seen them. But the overseas king went his separate ways - there was no faith in Tsar Peter.
“I won’t believe it,” he shouts, “until I see it with my own eyes!” Show me these Catherines! Let's go see them this very minute!

Well, the kings don’t have long to prepare. They ordered the horses to be harnessed and off we went. There are guards in front, and guards behind in case the robbers attack.

They drive, they drive, they look - a cart is crawling towards them. In it is a merchant with a bundle on his knees. The royal guard asks him:

- Good man, can you show us the way to the seven Catherine the Lacemakers?

The merchant told me how to get there and said:

I'm returning from them. I bought curtains. You can take a look. The merchant unrolled the curtains. Everyone gasped. Each of them has a whole fairy tale woven into it. On one - about Morozko, on the other - about Sivka-Burka, and on the third - about Vasilisa the Beautiful. The overseas king saw the curtains and shouted:

My! I'm buying! - And he threw the wallet of gold to the merchant. But Tsar Peter remains silent, as if this does not concern him. We moved on.

Good man, can you tell us where the seven Catherines live?
The merchant answers:
I know how not to know! Behind that fishing line... I bought a blanket from them. Won't you take a look? - The merchant unrolled the blanket - a miracle and nothing more! On one side, spring is catching up with summer, on the other, winter and autumn are embracing each other.
I'm buying! I'm buying! - shouts. - Treasurer, give him a hat of gold. - And the blanket itself is in an armful - and in the sleigh. He’s afraid that the merchant might change his mind or that Tsar Peter might intercept the purchase.

We drove a little more and reached the village. We drove up to the house where the lacemakers live. Seven Katerinas came out onto the porch. All stately, fair-haired, clear-eyed. They bowed to the guests at the waist and invited them into their house.

Each pad has its own pattern woven into it: one looks like waves are flowing under one’s hand, another has birds fluttering over unprecedented flowers, the third has stars scattered across the lace...

The overseas king was taken aback by such unprecedented beauty. Asks:

- Who makes your patterns? Who comes up with them?

The lacemakers answer:

We don't have any patterns. Folk tales help us. An overseas king wanted to buy fairy tales, but they are not for sale.

Fairy tales are not for sale. With us, what’s not lace is a fairy tale.
Tsar Peter asked him to tell them. And the elder Katerina told him a fairy tale called...

Vologda lace, one of the types of Russian lace, woven with bobbins. A continuous and non-crossing smooth line forming the Vologda lace pattern appears in the form of a woven braid (“wilyushka”) against the background of a thin openwork “lattice” (“coupling” technique)

The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. There is a legend that in 1725 Peter I ordered lacemakers from the Brabant monasteries to teach orphans how to weave lace in the Novodevichy Convent. How long this training existed in the monastery is unknown. But what’s interesting is that in the samples of lace preserved in different parts of Russia, and in the names of these laces, many old lacemakers pointed to “Draban (i.e. Brabant) thread.”

Lace making as a craft has existed in the Vologda province since 1820. During the times of serfdom, in all significant landowner estates of the province there were lace “factories” that supplied lace products to St. Petersburg and Moscow. And one of these factories was founded by the landowner Zasetskaya three miles from Vologda in the village of Kovyrino no later than the 20s of the 19th century. There, serfs wove the finest lace for finishing dresses and linen, imitating Western European patterns.

Over time, lace weaving moved from landowner workshops to the people and became one of the types of folk art that reflected the needs and tastes of wide circles of the local population. In 1893, in the Vologda province, craftswomen were engaged in lace making; in 1912

Over the years, the lacemakers of the Vologda region were united into artels; in 1928, a professional lace school was restored in Vologda, which began to train lacemakers under new conditions. The school has done a lot to revive traditional lace-making techniques and restore ornamental solutions characteristic of this center.

In 1930, the Volga Lace Union was created in Vologda, which united 50 artels scattered across various villages with a number of lacemakers. The form of labor organization in artels was mainly home-based. In the premises of the artels, craftsmen came to receive assignments and hand over finished products. And only in 1932 the Union created collective workshops, which made it possible to improve the technology of lace making and strengthen control over the quality of lace products.

In 1960, in connection with the abolition of industrial cooperation and the transfer of lace artels to the state system - local industry, 5 lace factories were formed in the Vologda region, and in 1964 the Vologda specialized lace association was created, which became one of the leading traditional crafts in Russia.

History of the development of lace making in Russia PRESENTATION PREPARED BY FINE ARTS TEACHER ZH.A. KHABAROVA Stavropol 201z LACERY TALE

First about lace
Lace is an amazing creation of human imagination, which originated as a type of decorative decoration of fabric products and over time enriched the sphere of art, striking with the luxury of openwork patterns and weaves. Lace is divided into needle-sewn and bobbin lace. Initially, in Europe, embroidered lace belonged to the aristocracy, and bobbin lace was common among the people. It is interesting that in the history of Russian bobbin lace there is a similar division. Some laces had an aristocratic character, while others had a folk character. The first were imitation of foreign models, and the second, which were in use among the people, turned out to be so original that it is difficult to determine the history of their origin. The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. Italy and Flanders are considered the most ancient centers of lace making. From them all other European countries learned lace making. It is still unknown when the art of lace weaving arose in the vast Vologda region, and why this craft turned out to be so beloved and popular in the North, specifically on the Vologda lands. Perhaps the predetermining factors were the developed flax growing and trade routes that ran here from north to south and brought the influence of foreign fashion, which took on its national forms on Russian soil.

History of lace making Lace

Lace is a textile product with a through mesh pattern formed by interlacing threads.
The Russian name for this product is related to the word “circle”. By the way, the word “lace” was once written as “lace”. Perhaps this was an indication of its purpose: to “surround” clothes and household items made of fabric with elegant decoration. Perhaps they meant the “circling” of a repeating pattern. Or perhaps the connection with the idea of the snowy “lace” of a blizzard, so familiar to Russian people, played a role. In any case, the association underlying the Russian name is not the same as in other languages (the French la dentell is associated with the idea of \u200b\u200bthe cloves, the German die Spitze also has such meanings as “top”, “point”, “tip” ).
Lace is a very ancient type of decorative and applied art. Data from archaeology, art history and writing suggest that lace making was known to the Egyptians and Greeks even before our era. However, it became widespread in Europe later, only from the end of the 15th – beginning of the 16th centuries.

Products that are kept in museums Tools of craftswomen

Lace is woven from threads, most often linen, silk and cotton. Typically these are threads of white or pearl gray, the natural color of flax fiber. But there are also black laces. Craftswomen use colored threads.
The main tools for weaving are bobbins. Each of them is a turned or carved stick, one end of which is thickened, and on the other there is a neck with a button for winding threads. Depending on how complex the pattern being woven is, a different number of bobbins is used - sometimes several hundred.
Bobbins are made from different types of wood: maple, apple, honeysuckle, viburnum, juniper, spruce. When the lacemaker quickly moves them while working, they make a melodious chime. The most sonorous, according to many craftswomen, are heather bobbins.
In addition to bobbins, a lacemaker also needs a cushion - an oblong pillow tightly stuffed with straw or oat husks. This roller can be called differently: “boob”, “tambourine”, “kutuz”, “puga”. It is placed on a “spreader” (small sawhorses). In some places, such a support for the roller is called a “hoop.” Pins are stuck into the roller, the purpose of which is to hold and secure the thread when re-leaving. The craftswoman weaves lace by throwing threads over these pins, which hang down on bobbins.

Vologda lace

Lace weaving is very common in the Vologda province. The main center of this fishery is the city of Vologda, then the Vologda and Gryazovets districts. In recent years, lace making began to be practiced in peasant families of the counties of Totemsky, Ustyug, Velsky and even Ust-Sysolsky - among the Zyryans.
There are up to 500 lacemakers in Vologda; Of these, 137 earn their livelihood solely through lace, 19 individuals, supported by other sources, weave lace casually, and for the rest, lace making is an aid in the household.
Today, the center of lace making in the Vologda region is the Snezhinka company, where such famous artists as N.V. Veselova, G.N. Mamrovskaya, M.Yu. Palnikova, A.N. Rakcheeva and T.N. Smirnova work. Hundreds of lace-makers work under their leadership.
Lace is also in demand in our computer age. And Vologda can rightfully be called the lace capital of Russia.

Features of lace

The characteristic features of any lace are transparency, openwork, airiness, thinness, elasticity, and patterning. Vologda lace is distinguished by its particularly smooth design lines, rhythmic repetition of ornamental elements, and rich patterning. Lace evokes emotions similar to the impression of a sounding melody. That is why, probably, Vologda lace is considered “musical”. It is also called “non-melting frost.” Snow-white patterns of light transparent lace often contain elements similar to snowflakes and prickly fir trees, covered with a white edge.

Tropinin V.A. “Lacemaker” Image of a lacemaker

The talented artist Vasily Andreevich Tropinin created more than seven hundred works. These are mainly portraits of contemporaries. People known and unknown, rich and poor, gentlemen and peasants became the heroes of Tropinin's paintings. One of his most famous paintings was “The Lacemaker,” painted by the master in 1823.
The canvas depicts a charming girl weaving lace. The picture is quiet and calm, there is no passion or drama in it. The color of the canvas is clear, natural, in golden-brown tones.
The lacemaker looks at us affectionately and trustingly. The girl's pretty face is surprisingly feminine. They frame him dark hair. They are combed smoothly, only unruly strands curl at the temples. A quick look of expressive eyes is directed towards the audience. It seems that the craftswoman looked up from her work for a moment to look at us and give us a kind, slightly mysterious smile. A soft, enveloping light seems to emanate from the girl’s gentle face.
The hands of a lacemaker are very expressive. They are elegant and graceful. Thin fingers know their job well and seem to flutter over the work.
The artist often dressed his characters not in ceremonial uniforms and magnificent secular attire, but in traditional Russian costumes. This emphasized the informality and “homey” spirit of the paintings. Here is the lacemaker dressed in a simple dress, with a modest scarf on her shoulders. She sits, bending over her work, personifying the world of home comfort and warmth.
The picture is full of deep, comprehensive love for man. “The Lacemaker” became a new, very striking phenomenon in Russian art of that time.

Lace making Types of bobbin lace Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. Variety and quirkiness lace patterns entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace In the Ryazan province, Mikhailovskoe lace (made in the city of Mikhailov) has long been known, the craft of which received great development and fame in the 1870s. Mikhailovskoe lace differs from other types of Russian lace in its bright colors and dense patterns (they have local names: “bells”, “capes”, “gorodki”, etc.). Traditionally, lace is used in finishing products in combination with counted satin stitch and cross stitch embroidery.

Lace making Lace making as one of the types of needlework has been known in Rus' for a long time. It, like embroidery, was practiced by women of all classes. The production of lace came to us from France in connection with the spread of European fashion in Russia. But if the dresses of kings, princes and boyars were decorated with lace made of gold, silver and silk threads, then linen lace was used in folk clothing, and from the end of the 19th century - cotton lace. In the villages Do not teach by idleness, but teach by handicraft Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and whimsicality of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace was used to decorate only festive clothes, but mostly lace was woven for sale, because... they were in great demand among rich people and abroad. This trade was carried out in monasteries, special artels and on landowners' estates, as a rule, in those areas where flax was grown. To weave lace, bobbins were used - turned or carved wooden sticks, and the material was linen, colored silk, gold and silver threads. The lace pattern, as a rule, was close to the ornament of peasant embroidery, rich in floral and geometric patterns. Gradually, some villages and even entire regions began to specialize in the production of lace. The lacemakers of different villages used their own special weaving techniques, and the work of each could often be recognized by its characteristic patterns and special quality. Vologda and Yelets lace are well known. This craft was practiced in Rostov, Balakhna, Torzhok, Ryazan, Galich, Klyazin. The lace produced in these places was distinguished by particularly fine workmanship, elegance and clarity of design, and a picturesque combination of various materials.

Types of lace There are several varieties of lace making: woven, sewn, knitted. Braided lace can be numerical or splintered. Numerical lace is made according to the number of weaves without a preliminary design; it is characterized by simple geometric patterns. Splitting lace ("paired" and "coupling") is made using a "splinter" - a pattern pinned onto cardboard or thick paper. Paired lace is made with many (up to 200) pairs of bobbins and is used mainly in creating measured lace - stitching and scalloped edges for finishing. Piece products are woven using the coupling technique: tablecloths, capes, bedspreads, etc. They are woven in parts, which are then connected with small couplings using a crochet hook. All the countless lace patterns are based on their varied patterns and variations of combinations, often original and unique in each area. Don’t teach by idleness, but teach by handicraft Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and whimsicality of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace

Do not teach by idleness, but teach by handicraft. To weave lace, very simple devices and tools are used: a pillow, a hoop, bobbins, a block, a pin, a crochet hook and lace chips. The main raw material for weaving lace is thread. The pillow is a round cushion tightly stuffed with chaff, sawdust or hay dust. The hoop is a wooden pillow stand 75 cm high and 40 cm wide. Bobbins are turned round wooden sticks with a recess for winding threads, like on spools. The bobbins also serve as a plumb line for the threads during weaving. Since lace is woven in pairs of bobbins, the thread is wound around a pair of bobbins (about three meters of thread for each); When winding thread on bobbins, the thread goes from bottom to top. Thus, it turns out that one end of a three-meter thread is wound on one bobbin, and the other on the other. When weaving lace with a loop, this allows you to put the middle of the thread on a pin, which is stuck into the roller to form a lace pattern. The lacemaker, fingering bobbins in her hands, intertwined threads around pins stuck in a certain order, forming a pattern. The finished lace was easily removed from the pins. Bobbins Lace weaving is an extremely beautiful folk craft. The variety and whimsicality of lace patterns is entirely determined by the imagination and skill of the craftswoman. Lace

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The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. There is a legend that in 1725 Peter I ordered 250 lacemakers from the Brabant monasteries to teach orphans how to weave lace in the Novodevichy Convent. How long this training existed in the monastery is unknown. But what’s interesting is that in the samples of lace preserved in different parts of Russia, and in the names of these laces, many old lacemakers pointed to “Draban (i.e. Brabant) thread.”

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In 1919-1921, lacemakers of the Vologda region were united into artels; in 1928, a professional lace school was restored in Vologda, which began to train lacemakers under new conditions. The school has done a lot to revive traditional lace-making techniques and restore ornamental solutions characteristic of this center.

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In 1930, the Volga Lace Union was created in Vologda, which united 50 artels scattered across various villages with a number of 40,000 lacemakers. The form of labor organization in artels was mainly home-based. In the premises of the artels, craftsmen came to receive assignments and hand over finished products. And only in 1932 the Union created collective workshops, which made it possible to improve the technology of lace making and strengthen control over the quality of lace products.