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Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No confusing formulas
• No confusing calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo black and white dress Our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

• We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
• We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
• We know that shoulder dart front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it to you when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

This section contains all the articles on the Syu.ru website dedicated to making clothing patterns with your own hands. Free advice from a professional studio technologist is intended for beginners. With their help you can cut your own skirt, dress and other women's clothing. Simple recommendations for creating a pattern are given school uniform for girls, furniture covers, bags, etc.

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What could be more enjoyable than sewing clothes for yourself? Our patterns for women's clothing will allow you to replenish your wardrobe with a variety of models of dresses, skirts, jackets, coats, trousers, shorts and other wonderful, varied products for any occasion and for any weather.

On the eve of the holidays, the Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati has prepared a pleasant surprise for all readers of the site. Especially for you, Anastasia Korfiati created a simple-cut, but incredibly spectacular festive dress made of blue-emerald glitter with a degrade effect. This model is suitable for almost any figure and, depending on the color and quality of the material from which you sew it, will look completely different. Sparkling glitter, luxurious jacquard, satin, silk and even lace - any elegant fabric is suitable for this dress. Finished pattern festive dress for 5 sizes and tips on modeling for a non-standard figure - in our next lesson.

Few will remain indifferent to an A-line skirt, because this model captivates at first sight, first of all, with its elegance. A slight flaring of the hem allows you to create a very feminine and sophisticated silhouette, and a rich Blue colour models are a win-win option for creating unique images in different styles. An A-line skirt is very combinatory and can be successfully combined with jackets, knitted jumpers or blouses - in any case, an elegant look and a great mood are guaranteed. Pattern for an A-line skirt in this tutorial.

Simple in cut, but very warm and comfortable dress loose silhouette created specifically for the cold season. The model is made of soft textured knitted fabric and has several non-standard details: counter pleats on the sleeves simulate volume, large patch pockets cut across create geometry, an original hem at the bottom edge adds lightness to the product. Spectacular buttons play a role bright accents and give the model a completed look. And even if you're not a fan short dresses Pair this warm dress with tight skinny jeans, leggings or thick wool tights and you'll feel comfortable in any situation. Pattern and master class on sewing a warm dress are in this lesson.

This knitted suit can not only be sewn from ready-made material, but also knitted. It consists of a jumper and a skirt - a voluminous top and a tight-fitting bottom - a wonderful collaboration of two completely independent things. Together they create a complete ensemble, however, each of them can act separately, as a combi-partner with other items in your wardrobe. For example, such a knitted skirt can be perfectly combined with a loose blouse, and a jumper with denim trousers.

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Let's look at a variation on the flounce theme and model a skirt with a one-piece flounce that turns into a bow. Perhaps such a model may seem too voluminous to some; in this case, you can always reduce both the length of the flounce and the size of the bow itself. The skirt presented in the article is made by us from gabardine, a sand shade that is popular this season, and it looks great! It is better to combine such a product with a tight-fitting top - a top, a short pullover, a blouse, etc.

The quality of the material used for sewing is often the starting point when creating a product sketch. The density, elasticity coefficient and color of the material give rise to the outlines and silhouette lines of the future model in the designer’s imagination. For our next lesson, we created a model from dense, “heavy” synthetic jersey in a dark plum color, and when working on the model, it was the material that dictated the silhouette of the dress. The result is a product that can highlight all the advantages of a female figure!

A one-piece sleeve is not only a very popular modern trend, but also an excellent solution for clothing of soft shapes, because the shoulder line of such a sleeve turns out to be a streamlined, smooth shape, and the configuration of the shoulder slope and the width of the sleeve itself can be varied depending on the angle of the sleeve during modeling. Let's take a closer look at what types of one-piece sleeves there are, how they differ, and how to model a one-piece sleeve with a gusset yourself.

This section contains ready-made life-size patterns, each of which you can download absolutely free, print on a printer and use for sewing products. Life-size patterns are convenient to use in cases where your measurements correspond to standard ones. For non-standard shapes, adjustments to the patterns may be required. Each pattern contains detailed recommendations and tips on how to choose the size that suits you and how to adjust the pattern if necessary.

The collection of patterns in this section is constantly updated and contains not only patterns of ready-made model solutions, but also basic product patterns, each of which is designed for 5 sizes. Download and use these basics to model any of the models presented on our website.

The convenient format of ready-made patterns allows you to download patterns in full A0 format and print them out as a single sheet. Doing this at home is quite difficult, since you will need a large printer. Therefore, we recommend downloading the pattern to your computer, saving it to a flash card and printing it at any nearest copy center.

We also made sure that you can print your own patterns on standard household printers. And for this, we divided large sheets into A4 sheets, which can be printed on any household printer. Print the pattern on A4 sheets, and then glue them together according to the diagram and get a life-size pattern.

Don't forget to check the patterns after printing and gluing; there is a test square on the patterns for this purpose. We also recommend that before cutting out fabric products, sew a mock-up of the product from mock-up fabric - unbleached calico, for example. This way you can check the design, make changes to the pattern if necessary, and get an excellent result.

We wish you to enjoy your creativity at the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School!

On the website of Anastasia Korfiati's Sewing School there is a separate section dedicated to ready-made life-size patterns. We specially created the “Ready Patterns” section due to numerous requests from readers, because sometimes the time limit simply does not allow you to independently design a product from scratch. In this case, ready-made patterns come to the rescue. As a rule, such patterns are created in several sizes at once, and you can download and print them for free. In this lesson we will tell you in detail how to correctly print, cut and glue pattern sheets, and then check the design by creating a layout.

A unique offer for everyone who loves to sew. The sewing school of Anastasia Korfiati together with the Yunis company will hold a free sewing marathon on sewing a festive dress. The designer dress model was created by Anastasia Korfiati especially for you. This dress has a precise, laconic cut, a fitted bodice silhouette, a V-shaped deep neckline that visually lengthens and models the proportions, and a half-sun skirt that is more relevant than ever this season. The dress is made of luxurious fabric - coupon jacquard color is used for the model white gold with a textured print - butterflies, and as you know, they never go out of style!

On the eve of the holidays, the Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati has prepared a pleasant surprise for all readers of the site. Especially for you, Anastasia Korfiati created a simple-cut, but incredibly spectacular festive dress made of blue-emerald glitter with a degrade effect. This model is suitable for almost any figure and, depending on the color and quality of the material from which you sew it, will look completely different. Sparkling glitter, luxurious jacquard, satin, silk and even lace - any elegant fabric is suitable for this dress. A ready-made pattern for a festive dress in 5 sizes and tips on modeling for a non-standard figure are in our next lesson.

Denim trousers have long become universal clothing, and have firmly taken their rightful place not only in men's, but also in women's wardrobe. Cut denim trousers differs from classic ones in that they have a tighter, tighter fit, but despite this, modern denim fabrics allow you to create very comfortable products, because even narrow models made of thick denim are able to take the shape of the body over time.
In our previous lessons we have already given you detailed construction basic pattern for denim trousers. And today we offer ready-made pattern denim trousers in 5 standard sizes, which you can download absolutely free.

When warm days begin and we spend most of our free time on fresh air, it can be difficult to find an extra minute to sew. Despite the fact that during such periods there is less time left for creativity, craftswomen are ready to sit at night sewing machine to show off your new clothes in the morning. In such cases, ready-made patterns come to the rescue, as they significantly save time and effort and help you create exactly when it is needed. An asymmetrical wrap skirt is one of the popular skirt models that almost never goes out of fashion and is quite simple to sew. In this tutorial we have prepared for you a ready-made pattern for an asymmetrical wrap skirt in 5 sizes, which you can download absolutely free.

We all dream of a luxurious vacation by the sea, where we can completely disconnect from everyday routine, breathe clean sea air, swim, sunbathe, and on warm magical evenings stroll along the embankment or enjoy gourmet cuisine in cozy restaurants. So that you can feel like a star every day, you don’t have to take with you on vacation mountains of extra clothes that you will never wear. Much nicer to sew universal models, which can be easily transformed. The openwork dress, the pattern of which we offer you in this lesson, is a real find for the holidays - depending on the accessories and shoes that you choose for it, such a dress can be worn both on the beach and on an evening walk. The pattern of an openwork dress is in this lesson.

The wrap skirt with an asymmetrical hem line, the pattern of which we offer you in this tutorial, is not only a real hit of the season - it may well become a hit in your wardrobe! Made from thin foam-pink cotton with a one-piece belt, this skirt will ideally highlight your waistline and correct curvy hips. A slight side flare and deep pleats visually change the proportions, elongating the lower part of the figure, and the open wrap line allows you to demonstrate beautiful legs. If you decide to sew such a model for yourself, you will not have to waste time on creating and modeling a pattern, since you can download a ready-made skirt pattern in 5 life-size sizes completely free of charge!

It's always nice to spend time in the kitchen with company or family. Cooking dishes together, pleasant communication, delicious aromas - all this creates a mood and brings people together. But when the man starts preparing the dishes, the whole family knows - now there will be a holiday! The man in the kitchen is a master, he does everything competently, leisurely, without fuss. So let's give men a little push to cook more often and make them a fashionable denim apron for the kitchen. After all, even if your man does not yet have professional cooking skills, he will always be very happy to brew you aromatic coffee or make delicious sandwiches. And such a gift as an apron will be very useful to him!

The site's editors receive a huge number of letters asking them to develop and publish as many fashionable and elegant models as possible on big sizes. We understand that it is difficult to buy beautiful and high-quality clothes for a non-standard figure in stores, and we try to take into account all your wishes and fulfill them. However, in order to model the desired style of dress or blouse, a basic pattern or the basis of the dress is required, and it is from this that one must begin. Needless to say, please publish a basic pattern for download on big size- champion among your requests? Today we are happy to fulfill the wishes of many of our readers, women of luxurious shapes, by publishing a basic pattern for downloading in sizes 52-54-56, and we hope that this will help you create clothes that fit your figure perfectly, and for some, it may become a new stage of the creative path.

How nice it is after a long, eventful day and evening to put on soft, comfortable pajamas, wrap yourself in a blanket and plunge into the world of sweet dreams. Pajamas made from natural material should definitely be in every woman's wardrobe. After all, a good sleep is not only the key to a great mood, but also female beauty. It's time to sew cozy, warm pajamas for your loved one! Knitted pajama pattern.